30 settembre 2010

Un pò di Formazione / A little Training

Vi segnalo due occasioni di formazione organizzate da Mouillettes&Co.
- Il 26 ottobre lezione di una giornata su “UN SECOLO DI PROFUMI FEMMINILI”: una ricca retrospettiva dei profumi femminili dall'inizio del 20° secolo ad oggi, per riscoprire le fragranze che hanno fatto la storia della profumeria ed interpretare le creazioni contemporanee attraveros la rilettura delle fasi evolutive pregresse.
- Il 4-5 novembre si svolgerà il corso “INTRODUZIONE”: due giornate di introduzione alla tecnica del Profumo ed al linguaggio degli odori, utilissimo per chi desidera:
   - Acquisire, perfezionare, o strutturare le proprie conoscenze in campo olfattivo
   - Sviluppare una cultura profumo
   - Padroneggiare il vocabolario degli odori
   - Saper identificare le principali note di un profumo
Ricordate Maria Grazia Fornasier, l'esperta che ci fece quella bellissima lezione sulle "Materie prime dal Mondo" lo scorso febbraio, durante Esxence? Ecco, il docente dei corsi è proprio lei e i corsi si svolgono presso la sede della sua scuola, a Castelletto Ticino. Per informazioni potete scrivere a  info-corsi@mouillettes-and-co.com, telefonare allo 0331 911853 o andare sul sito di Mouillettes&Co.
Io sto pensando di partecipare alla giornata del 26 ottobre, qualcuno viene con me?

Two training opportunities organized by Mouillettes & Co.
- On October 26th, one-day lesson on "A CENTURY OF WOMEN'S FRAGRANCES”: a rich study of feminine perfumes since the early XXth century to today, to rediscover raw materials that made the history of perfumery and to learn how to read contemporary works, through the previous evolutionary steps.
- On November 4th and 5th instead, will be held the "INTRODUCTION" course. Two days for getting more into the technique and the language of perfume. Very useful for those who want to:

   - Acquire, improve, or structure their knowledge in the olfactory field
   - Develop a culture of perfume
   - Mastering the vocabulary of odors
   - Being able to identify the main notes of a perfume
The courses will be held in Castelletto Ticino. To get information  you can email  info-corsi@mouillettes-and-co.com, call +39 0331 911853 or visit the website Mouillettes&Co.
I’m planning to attend the first of the two; someone coming with me?

28 settembre 2010

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http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/02/domani-ore-11.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/02/sniffathona-prima-parte.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/02/sniffathona-seconda-parte.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/02/sniffathona-terza-parte-etat-libre.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/02/sniffathona-quarta-parte-mona-di-orio.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/02/sniffathona-quinta-parte-editions-de.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/03/sniffathona-sesta-e-ultima-parte-bond.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/03/borneo-1834-serge-lutens-2005.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/03/iranzol-bruno-acampora-1976.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/03/profumi-che-si-sentono.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/03/stoned-solange-azagury-partridge-2006.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/03/pois-de-senteur-de-chez-moi-caron-1927.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/03/profumo-di-primavera.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/03/zurigo.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/03/i-muschi-1-di-2.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/03/i-muschi-22_30.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/04/ten-knize-1924.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/04/perfumes-guide.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/04/cosmoprof-area-masterpieces-profumi-di.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/04/fleurs-de-rocaille-caron-1934.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/04/domattina.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/04/risultati-del-sondaggio.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/04/il-telefono-diffonde-musica-profumata.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/04/sushi-imperiale-bois-1920.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/04/5000-grazie.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/04/tauer-perfumes.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/05/di-ritorno.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/05/le-fragranze-di-andy-tauer.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/05/intervista-ad-andy-tauer.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/05/festival-delle-rose.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/05/b-su-radio-2.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/05/datura-noir-serge-lutenschris-sheldrake.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/05/10a-giornata-del-profumo-grasse.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/05/sondaggio-come-scegliete-il-profumo-da.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/05/la-decima-giornata-del-profumo-grasse.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/05/lo-stand-dellosmothque.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/06/per-festeggiare.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/12/fragrantica-blog-awards.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/12/musc-kublai-khan-serge-lutens-e.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/12/if-there-ever-was-book-of-extinct-and.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/12/profumare-linverno.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/12/le-baiser-du-dragon-alberto-morillas.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/12/bal-musqu-karine-chevalier-per-nez-nez.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/11/durante-pitti-immagine-fragranze.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/10/karanal.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/10/la-nuova-insolence-edp.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2008/10/intervista-james-heeley.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/gemelli-diversi.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/profumare-i-vestiti.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/bon-ton-e-profumo.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/il-profumo-sulla-pelle.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/parfum-eau-de-toilette-o-eau-de-parfum.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/famiglia-olfattiva-orientale.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/famiglia-olfattiva-agrumataesperidata.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/com-composto-un-profumo.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/profumo-del-giorno.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/feminit-du-bois-shiseido-1992.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/allure-sensuelle-chanel-2006.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/messe-de-minuit-etro.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/palais-jamais-etro.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/musk-lorenzo-villoresi.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/muske-for-men-royall.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/dew-musk-montale.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/musc-alize-comptoir-sud-pacifique.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/colonia-al-muschio-bianco-acca-kappa.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/musc-ravageur-editions-de-parfums.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/muschio-blu-il-profumo.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/musc-bruno-acampora.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/musc-for-her-narciso-rodriguez.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/apres-londe-guerlain-1906.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/doblis-hermes-1955-ried-2005.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/parfum-sacr-caron-1990.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/lys-st-barth.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/shalimar-guerlain-1925.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/insolence-guerlain-2006.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/lhomme-de-coeur-e-lhomme-sage-divine.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/divine-e-lame-soeur-divine.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/baghari-r-piguet-1955-ried-2006.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/aimez-moi-caron-1996.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/lovely-sarah-jessica-parker.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/n5-chanel.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/chypre-di-accord-parfait.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/07/torno-da-qualche-giorno-di-ferie-e_09.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/06/ma-griffe-vintage-carven-1945.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/07/ambra-e-muschio-bianco-degitto.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/07/racquets-formula-penhaligons-1989.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/07/annick-goutal-apre-il-negozio-on-line.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/07/profumi-al-caldo.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/07/acqua-di-parma-1916_31.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/07/patchouli-ambra-e-vaniglia-sireta-2006.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/08/luctor-et-emergo-people-of-labyrinths.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/08/nuovi-campioni-da-annusare.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/08/habanita-molinard-1921.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/08/outrageous-nuovo-profumo-di-f-malle.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/08/profumi-da-fate-e-profumi-da-streghe-le.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/08/profumi-da-fate-e-profumi-da-streghe-le_20.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/08/carnation-mona-di-orio-2006.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/08/nuits-de-noho-2005.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/08/fragranze-pitti-immagine.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/08/ambre-precieux-maitre-parfumeur-et.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/09/aromi-discutibili-il-lato-freak-in.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/09/timbuktu-lartisan-parfumeur-2004.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/08/black-orchid-tom-ford-2006.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/07/guet-apens-guerlain-1999.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/09/jammin-e-200-ans-damour-reminiscence.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/09/pitti-immagine-fragranze.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/09/pitti-immagine-fragranze-resoconto-i.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/09/histoires-des-parfums-tonatto-different.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/09/different-company-resoconto-iii-parte.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/09/villoresi-e-caron-resoconto-iv-parte.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/09/una-sposa-un-profumo.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/09/ineke-ruland-delrae-roth-resoconto-vi.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/10/i-sette-profumi-capitali-linstallazione.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/10/lolfattorio-ha-aperto-firenze.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/10/bond-n9-e-nasomatto-resoconto-vi-parte.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/10/resoconto-ultima-parte-bois-1920-e_06.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/10/visita-allofficina-profumo-farmaceutica.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/10/i-profumi-amouage-gold-reflections-e.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/10/la-pubblicit-di-midnight-poison-dior.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/10/i-miei-peggiori-di-sempre.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/10/linspiratrice-divine.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/10/cest-un-ange-escapades.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/11/leau-dhiver-editions-des-parfums-f.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/11/coromandel-chanel-2006.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/11/profumi-al-freddo.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/11/armani-priv-ambre-soie-bois-dencens-eau.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/12/tecnologia-profumata.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/12/due-parole-babbo-natale.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/12/due-paroline-babbo-natale-2.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/12/novit-dalle-nereides.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/12/130.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/12/linterdit-givenchy-1957.html

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2007/12/gucci-gucci-2007.html

Una rosa diversa da tutte: Quartz Rose (Olivier Durbano, 2010)

"Per creare questa nuova fragranza alla rosa ho cercato di non pensare a tutto quello che già esiste, che è stato già detto sul tema della rosa. Volevo che fosse tenera, nel senso di luminosa e ingenua, non volevo che uscisse il lato troppo conturbante e femminile del fiore".
Una delle fragranze che mi hanno particolarmente colpita durante Pitti Immagine Fragranze è stata la nuova creazione di Olivier Durbano: Rose Quartz.

A different take on rose: Quartz Rose (Olivier Durbano, 2010) - (Avec traduction française!)

Traduction Française plus bas!

"To create this new fragrance based on rose, I tried not to think of everything already said and done about this flower. I wanted it tender, in the sense of light and naive, I wasn't interested in exploring the sensual, opulent or feminine side of it".
A fragrance that particularly impressed me at Pitti Fragrances is the new creation by Olivier Durbano: Quartz Rose.

24 settembre 2010

Hanbury e Barry Lyndon: i due nuovi profumi di Maria Candida Gentile Maitre Parfumeur

Durante le giornate di Pitti Immagine Fragranze Maria Candida Gentile ha presentato le sue due nuove fragranze: Hanbury e Barry Lyndon, che ho trovato entrambe interessanti. Nelle sue nuove creazioni  Maria Candida abbandona momentaneamente il suo amato incenso, le strutture opulente e "tattili" a favore di composizioni più serene, luminose, ottimiste senza nessun angolo buio. Soprattutto in Hanbury, la fragranza ispirata ai giardini di Villa Hanbury a Ventimiglia.

Hanbury and Barry Lyndon: new launches by Maria Candida Gentile Maitre Parfumeur

During the days of Pitti Immagine Fragranze, Maria Candida Gentile presented her two new launches: Hanbury and Barry Lyndon. I found both interesting: Maria Candida seems to having temporarily given up her beloved incense and rich structures, opulent in an almost "tactile" way, in favour of more serene, bright compositions, optimistic without any dark corner. Especially Hanbury, the fragrance inspired by the gardens of Villa Hanbury in Ventimiglia (Ligurian Riviera).

15 settembre 2010

Sissel Tolaas: che odore ha la paura?

Ma la sorpresa più bella di Pitti immagine Fragranze in realtà è stata un'altra; aver potuto conoscere Sissel Tolaas. Scienziata  impegnata da anni nei temi dell'odore, la Dr.a Tolaas è arrivata a Firenze con un'installazione odorosa assolutamente fuori dall'ordinario: una parete completamente bianca in cui sono state inserite delle molecole di odore. Per essere precisi, odore di un giovanotto in preda ad un attacco di paura. Avvicinandosi al muro bianco e grattando, le molecole venivano rilasciate nell'aria ed era possibile precepire un odore acre, un sudore caldo e speziato, pungente, decisamente fastidioso (davanti al muro vedete i miei amici dell'Adjiumi Niche Perfumes).

Sissel Tolaas: how does fear smell?

But the best surprise at Pitti Immagine Fragranze was another: Sissel Tolaas. Scientist engaged in smell issues for years,  Dr.Tolaas arrived in Florence with a fragrant installation absolutely out of the ordinary: a plain white wall in which odor molecules were inserted. To be precise, the smell of a young man panicking. To release the odor you scratched the wall and started perceiving an acrid smell, of hot, spicy sweat, pungent and very annoying (in the picture, my friends from Adjiumi Niche Perfumes).

14 settembre 2010

Appunti da Pitti Immagine Fragranze

Sto raccogliendo gli appunti di questi tre giorni a Pitti Immagine Fragranze per preparare una serie di post su:
- Le due nuove uscite dell'Artisan Parfumeur: Traversèe du Bosphore e Coeur de vetiver Sacrè. Sono rimasta colpitissima soprattutto dal vetiver: speziato caldo e in un certo modo sensuale, meno vetiver di quello che il nome lascerebbe intuire.
- Quartz Rose di Olivier Durbano, una fragranza alla rosa che mi ha letteralmente incantata: delicata ed eterea, considerabile come la "sorellina" ingenua e ancora non "sensualmente corrotta" dei 5 fratelli adulti.

Notes from Pitti Immagine Fragranze

I'm collecting notes I wrote during the last 3 days at Pitti Immagine Fragranze, and I'm preparing a series of posts which will deal with scents I liked:
- the two new releases by Artisan Parfumeur: Traversèe du Bosphore and Coeur de vetiver Sacré. The vetiver strikes for its spiciness, sensual in an odd way, much less vetiver-ial than what the name suggests.
- Rose Quartz by Olivier Durbano, a rose fragrance that enchanted me with its delicate and ethereal touch; like a sort of "little sister" -still naive and not yet "sensually corrupt"- of her grown up siblings of the line.

13 settembre 2010

L'Arte del Profumo

Il ricco programa di Pitti Immagine Fragranze prevedeva, tra gli altri eventi, anche uno che attendevo con particolare emozione: la presentazione del mio libro, "L'Arte del Profumo" edito da Castelvecchi, arrivato in questi giorni in libreria. Non ve ne ho parlato prima perchè non ci sono riuscita, così ve ne parlo ora.
Il volume è strutturato come un manuale che accompagna il lettore alla scoperta del linguaggio del profumo, aiutandolo ad educare l'olfatto con suggerimenti, stimoli, percorsi profumati tra le note.

L'Arte del Profumo (The Art of Perfume)

The rich program scheduled for Pitti Immagine Fragranze days included, among other events, one which I was awaiting with particular thrill: the presentation of my book, "The Art of Perfume" published by Italian publisher Castelvecchi and just arrived in bookstores. I haven't written anything of it before because I didn't succeed, so I'm telling you now.  The book is designed like a manual taking es the reader to discover the fragrance world, helping to educate the nose with suggestions, stimuli, scent paths to walk around notes.

8 settembre 2010

Pitti Immagine Fragranze: programma di Sabato 11

Quest'anno, per la giornata aperta al pubblico di Pitti immagine Fragranze (sito qui), che si svolgerà a Firenze presso la Stazione Leoppolda da venerdì 10 a domenica 12, gli amici dell'Adjiumi Niche Forum e io abbiamo deciso di non proporvi un programma dettagliato.
Abbiamo preferito fissare solo tre appuntamenti, tre occasioni per incontrarci ed annusare insieme alcune novità. Durante il resto della giornata ognuno sarà libero di esplorare gli stand nell'ordine che preferisce, con la massima libertà.
Ci è sembrato un buon compromesso tra la voglia di incontrarsi e stare insieme, e l'impulso irresistibile di galoppare a briglia sicolta tra gli stand, un impulso che ci prende tutti (noi compresi) non appena -terminata la registrazione- si varca la soglia e si entra in quel magico mondo.
Che ne dite?

Programma:
Ore 10.30 Incontro con Yosh Han per la presentazione della sua nuova linea di edp (stand Campomarzio70)
Ore 13.30 Incontro con Sonia Constant di Givaudan, creatrice di Trama (Simone Cosac Profumi). Parleremo di come un brief del committente viene trasformato in profumo finito (Conference Hall)
Ore 16.00 Incontro con Mona di Orio per la presentazione della nuova liena Les Nombres D'Or (stand ProfumImport).