3 marzo 2011

New parfum by Serge Lutens: Jeux de Peau

Background 1: Finally, the export line by Serge Lutens is available also at "La Rinascente" department store in Genoa, at the Shiseido corner.
Background 2: behind the counter, at the Shiseido corner, you will find Fabrizia, who isn't only polite and smiling, but highly competent above all: in addition to receiving regular training by the company she works for, she uses to scour websites and libraries to learn as much as possible about perfumery in general, and about Serge Lutens’ works in particular. We spent half an hour talking about Inoui, Nombre Noir, and Shiseido’s other fragrances from the 80s onwards, exchanging anecdotes and opinions, and for me this was a rare pleasure, for which I thank her very much.
Fact: on the occasion, I had the chance to wear Jeux de Peau, due out in mid-March.
I was happy to notice that Monsieur finally delights us again by something
- wearable
- unusual and fascinating
- unquestionably “Lutens” in style

Of course, “wearable” doesn’t mean that everyone will enjoy it; I mean that Jeux de Peau is not so extreme to be incomprehensible, for example is not as aloof and distant like Bas de Soie or stinging like Filles en Aiguilles, nor as icy-cold as the Eau.
Those who love those "typically Lutens" notes and accords -that is oriental, vanillic, woody, spicy- will be happy to find woods and resins of Santal Blanc and Cedre, amber and vanilla of Ambre Sultan, the spicy gourmand sensation of Chypre Rouge. In the end, what really characterizes it, is the strange, pungent/creamy opening accord (coconut and immortelle? licorice and caramel?); this accord introduces one of the finest gourmand accords I've smelt so far: a French croissant oven-warmed, with a generous spread of demi-sel butter. Nearby, but not too close, an apricot compote (osmanthus, perhaps) and maybe a drop of honey.
The result isn’t sweet or cloying at all, the play on salty/sweet, and fatty/acid is perfectly calibrated to stay in a sober balance, suitable both for men and women alike.
When the gourmand feeling slips away, and it takes an hour, woods, vanilla and incense make the most immediately Lutens base.
I've only worn it today, it’s soon to have a complete idea, I need to wear it again a couple of times, but I think it won’t be difficult at all!

Nessun commento: