23 ottobre 2009

The YOSH line (meeting with Yosh Han)

I met Yosh Han during Pitti Immagine Fragranze days. She wanted to present me her fragrances (Sottile, Whiteflowers, U4EAHH!, Giger Ciao, Stargazer and Omniscent) so she invited me to sit with her in a couch, pulled out of the bag all her tiny bottles and began to explain that she composes according to aromachology principles, that is, according to the effect that fragrances of plants and flowers have on our mental and physical wellbeing. Formulas are created to resonate with the seven chakras of our subtle body, that is the "exchangers" regulating the flow of energy within us.

For me, perfume has only one purpose: pure, pure, pure hedonism, the pleasure of wearing it and let it take my hand to lead me in an olfactory journey, but this approach seemed also very interesting and promising; I have a professional training in shiatsu and I’d never met energy-focused fragrances before. Later on I met with Olivier Durbano (I’ll write a post on his scents) who infuses his works with vibrations of stones and crystals, but this was the first time ever. Yosh left a sample pack so I could try her scents well and for long.

We left the couch for the fragrant journey starting with the most delicate, “Sottile” (subtle, in Italian) a very discreet, angelic rose/muguet accord, much like a whisper; “Whiteflowers” is a chorus of white flowers in which you smell jasmin, narcissus, lilac, tuberose, gardenia. All opulent, sound flowers but tamed by a green, dry note of petitgrain which succeeds in putting them in line and make them sing a few shades below. A fragrance of pure light, very suitable for a bride, I immediately thought. “U4EAHH!” (read EUFORIA!) is more lively and multifaceted, with flowers and fruits (pomegranate, watermelon, pear), but absolutely not the classic flower/fruity you can expect. In “Stargazer” the stargazer lily is the real protagonist and for me this is the classier, more refined scent of the whole line, well balanced between the green hue and a slight hint of sweetness, a dance between two opposing feelings melting one into the other so delicately that you can barely feel the two feelings alone, with a very slight animalic drydown. “Ominiscent” is a spicy scent with pepper and (perhaps) ginger, without the comforting and familiar warmth of spices but with a more austere side instead, as restrained, which eventually melts in a caresse of (perhaps) beeswax. “Ginger Ciao” is my favorite fragrance in the line, the more complex and multifaceted with coconut, ylang ylang and sandalwood which provide a deep sense of warmth, softness, comfort, but also of excitement and expectation.

The line shows a specific, recognizable aesthetic: Yosh obviously doesn’t feel at ease with sound, ringing, fragrances; probably her oriental origins suggest a more the delicate approach, her works stay very close to the wearer’s skin, are to be enjoyed privately. In fact, although fragrance oil, they don’t show great persistence, and this is the only aspect which I don’t appreciate: I understand this must be a choice of hers (the line is very consistent in its entirety) but I'm sorry because they’re beautiful, and I wish they lasted longer and projected better in space. On the other hand, their whispered conversations do have a special charm, they remind me of Ikebana art, and of Japanese watercolors where light seems to filter from dew drops.
I believe she works with short formulas, I smelled some charming naturals and the few synthetics are used in a very refined way, put in the right places to make the light shine like diamonds. In fact, the effect is natural, sophisticated, thin, bright. Veeery chic, and very different from anything else.
I wouldn’t swear they really interacted with my chakras, but... chissenefrega (idontgiveadamn), I like them a lot in their whole, and I'm meditating the purchase of Ginger Ciao (in Italy only Campomarzio sells it) and maybe “Stargazer”.
Incidentally, I was seduced by the bottles: tiny, minimal, elegant, fully consistent with their content. Brava Yosh!

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