23 dicembre 2010

Buon Natale!/Merry Christmas!

A chi passa di qui solo ogni tanto. A chi legge i miei scritti fin dall'inizio. A chi si stampa le pagine per leggersele con calma. A chi mi ha inviato fialette su fialette, scambiando opinioni, commenti ed entusiasmi. A chi legge sempre ma non scrive mai. A chi legge sempre, va a provare eppoi torna qui a commentare, condividendo le sue emozioni con tutti. A chi pensa di non essere ancora pronto. A chi mi ha fatto notare gli errori fatti, permettendomi di crescere. A tutti i lettori nuovi e vecchi, auguro un felice Natale e un ancor più felice 2011.
E già che ci sono: cos'avete chiesto, voi, a Babbo Natale?

To all passers by. To those who read this blog since the beginning. To those who print my articles to read them more at ease. To those who exchange vials with me, exchanging also opinions and enthusiasm. To those who always read but never write. To those who always read, try and then come back to share their comments with others. To those who think they're not ready. To those who corrected mistakes I made, allowing me to evolve. To all readers, old and new, I wish merry Christmas and an even happier year 2011And... what have you asked Santa for?

19 dicembre 2010

Quarto Blind test

Come ultimo blind test abbiamo scelto la fragranza meno conosciuta del marchio francese Reminiscence: “2000 Ans d’Amour”. Nei negozi si fa fatica a reperirla perché raramente la tengono e anche su internet non si trova facilmente. Chissà perché, visto che i profumi giocati sulla danza tra una sensazione intensamente legnosa (che può essere patchouli, oud, sandalo o legno di cedro) e un cuore fiorito (rosa gelsomino, fiori d’arancio ecc) sono stati le vere star di questi ultimi due anni. Tutti i marchi e i creatori vi si sono cimentati e anche Reminiscence, ma con 10 anni di anticipo (questo profumo è uscito nel 2000). Un gioiellino di eleganza ed equilibrio, luminoso, avvolgente, che passò quasi inosservato.

Blind Test #4

As the fourth and final blind test we chose Reminiscence’s the lesser-known perfume: "2000 Ans d'Amour." In the shops it’s hard to find and even on the internet it’s not easy to find. I don’t understand why, since scents playing between an intensely woody feeling (which can be patchouli, oud, sandalwood or cedar) and a floral heart (rose, mainly etc) have been starring in these last two years. Almost every brand has launched a similar perfume, but… Reminiscence did it 10 years in advance (this perfume was released in 2000).

13 dicembre 2010

Terzo Incontro da Caleri/Third meeting at Caleri's

Giovedì 16 dicembre alle ore 18 ci sarà il terzo incontro del ciclo "I Profumo e gli artisti che li compongono". L'incontro è aperto a tutti, per rinformazioni potete telefonare in negozio: 010 581312.
Vi aspetto!

Thursday, Decembre 16th at 18.00 Caleri will host the third meeting of the series "Perfumes, and artists who compose them". See you there!

12 dicembre 2010

Terzo Blind Test

“…Mughetto in un letto di muschio, subito dopo una pioggia gentile di primavera…" Sono le parole con cui Andy Tauer, il creatore di questa fragranza, descrive il profumo “Carillon pour un Ange”, creato quest’anno per Luckyscent ed in vendita esclusivamente lì. Quando Andy me ne ha dato un flacone, qualche mese fa, gli avevo detto che lo avrei usato per qualcosa di speciale! ;-)

Blind Test #3

“… lily of the valley in their mossy bed, after a gentle spring rain…” this is how Andy Tauer describes his new perfume "Carillon pour un Ange," created this year for Luckyscent and sold exclusively there. When Andy gave me a bottle, a few months ago, I told him I would use it for something special! ;-)
This perfume is a work of reconstruction of lilies of the valley and lilacs -both providing no natural oil-, enriched with beautiful natural notes of jasmine (indolic and decaying), rose and ylang ylang (green and rough), oakmoss for the "salty" and disturbing feeling, a hint of leather joined by ambergris and a touch of wood.

9 dicembre 2010

Secondo Blind Test

La numero 2 è una fragranza “di nicchia”: Iroaz, del marchio bretone “Lostmarc’h”. L’idea di Antoine Vuillermet, creatore del marchio, era quella di ricreare una rosa che fiorisce in riva all’Oceano, su una spiaggia “alla fine del mondo”.  Però, pochi di voi (tranne michiko e alberto, marco ne ha trovato un accenno) hanno individuato che tutta la fragranza è costruita intorno a questa protagonista piuttosto ingombrante. Forse la difficoltà d’individuare la Regina dei Fiori nasce dal fatto che qui è trattata in maniera piuttosto insolita, accostata a note ozoniche–marine (che Nebulosa ha colto); ma in ogni caso questo è fondamentalmente un profumo alla rosa.

Blind Test #2

Fragrance #2 was "niche": Iroaz from the Breton brand Lostmarc'h. The idea of Antoine Vuillermet, creator of the brand, was to create a rose blooming near the ocean, on a beach at the end of the world. However, none of you (except Michiko, Alberto and Marco hinted ot it) identified that the fragrance is built around a quite recognizable and powerful character: rose. 

6 dicembre 2010

Primo Blind Test

Per meno di trenta euro, si possono trovare in giro profumi commerciali anche ben fatti. L’autore di questa fragranza è Olivier Cresp, un grande creatore di profumi, un maestro, autore tra gli altri di Angel (1992, T. Mugler), Light Blue (2001, Dolce e Gabbana), Ange ou Demon (2006, Givenchy), Midnight Poison (2007, Christian Dior). Qui ha lavorato (con altri Marie Salamagne e Jacques Cavallier) per Yves Rocher, in una fragranza uscita nel 2009 che si chiama “So Elixir”.

Blind Test N.1

For less than thirty euros, you can find industrial perfumes well executed. The author of this fragrance is Olivier Cresp, a Maestro of perfumery, authoring, among others, Angel (1992, T. Mugler), Light Blue (2001, Dolce and Gabbana), Ange ou Demon (2006, Givenchy ) Midnight Poison (2007, Christian Dior). Here he worked (with Marie Salamagne and Jacques Cavallier) for Yves Rocher, at a fragrance released in 2009 and called "So Elixir".

2 dicembre 2010

Farmacia del Castello: Nuovo Sito /New Website!

Mentre aspetto che tutti i partecipanti al gioco del Blind test completino l'invio delle loro recensioni,  con un'impazienza che rasenta il delirio (tre hanno mandato tutto, uno ha mandato quasi tutto e di due ancora non c'è traccia), perdo tempo girellando nella rete in cerca di regali natalizi.
Oggi ad esempio ho visto che la Farmacia del Castello di Genova ha aperto un nuovo sito web (qui) ricco di informazioni e di idee regalo profumate, e con una lista pressochè infinita di profumi prodotti artigianalmente.  Ve lo segnalo perchè so che molti amano il loro profumo al Talco, e che lo ordinavano telefonicamente: sul sito hanno attivato il negozio online, quindi è ancora più facile. Tra l'altro, ho notato che all'essenza hanno affiancato l'olio di mandorle dolci, i sali, la crema corpo, bagnoschiuma, saponi e qualsiasi altra cosa vi venga in mente, tutto con l'aroma del loro mitico Talco.
Io di recente mi sono imbattuta nel Black Patchouli. Rispetto ad altri patchouli "ripuliti", delicati, questo è veramente nero: caldo, legnoso, ruvido, è solo leggermente ammorbidito da una nota d'ambra, che ne arrotonda l'eccesso muffoso. Io non ho potuto fare a meno di averlo anche se, in questo momento è finito (chissà come mai?)  sulla mensola di mio marito... ma me lo vado a riprendere.
Allora, queste recensioni?
----------------------------------------------------------------
While waiting for all participants to complete the submission of their Blind Test reviews (3 are ok, 1 is almost ok, two are still on their way) with an impatience bordering delirium, I've been surfing the Web, looking for scented gift to ask Santa for...
So I saw that Farmacia del Castello Genova opened a brand new website (here) rich  in information and gift ideas (in Italian). I'm pointing it out because I know that many people love their Talco scent (Talcum powder), and that use to order it by phone: the online store is now enabled, making everything easier. By the way, I noticed that this legendary scent is also infused in sweet almond oil, bath salts, body cream, shower gel, soap... and anything else may come to your mind.
I recently came across their Black Patchouli. Compared to other more refined, delicate or "cleaner" patchouli this is black indeed: warm, woody, rough, only slightly softened by an amber note, which rounds off the moldy excess. I couldn't do but purchase it, although, right now, it's flown over to my husband's shelf (Guess why? :-))
Ok, now I'm really eager for the reviews!

30 novembre 2010

Intervista con Frederic Malle (2/2)

E qui scambiamo parole di ammirazione per la grande Sophia Grojsman, Nostra Signora dei fioriti aldeidati, Regina indiscussa della Femminilità dal Sillage Importante (White Linen, Vanderbilt, Yvresse, Calyx, Paris, Tresor, Eternity), che in quel momento è in vacanza e che Monsieur potrebbe raggiungere con una telefonata. Sono tentata di chiederlo, mi piacerebbe poterle dire dal vivo quanto ammiro il suo lavoro. Lo sentirebbe che sono emozionata, perché uno dei miei primi desideri profumati, tra l‘infanzia e l’adolescenza fu il suo White Linen, perché mia madre ha portato per anni il suo Paris, perché il primo profumo che mi venne regalato da un uomo (beh, un ragazzo) fu il suo Eternity…

Interview with Frederic Malle (2/2)

And here we exchange words of great admiration for Sophia Grojsman, Our Lady of the aldeidic flowers, undisputed Queen of FWGS (Feminines With Great Sillage) like White Linen, Vanderbilt, Yvresse, Calyx, Paris, Tresor, Eternity. She was on holiday, only a phone call away, and I was really tempted to ask Monsieur Malle to call her, I would've told her live how I admire her work. She would’ve felt my excitement: because one of the first fragrances in my wishlist, between childhood and adolescence, was her White Linen; because my mother had been wearing her Paris for years, because the first fragrance I was given by a man (well, a boy ) was her Eternity...



28 novembre 2010

Intervista con Frederic Malle (Editions des Parfums Frederic Malle) 1/2

Confesso che prima di incontrarlo mi sentivo un po’ intimidita e ansiosa: non capita tutti i giorni di poter passare un po’ di tempo con un personaggio come Frederic Malle, l'esteta visionario e innovatore che 10 anni fa creò il marchio Editions des Parfums Frederic Malle, che oggi esprime il meglio del meglio, l’assoluta eccellenza nel mondo delle fragranze. Il marchio per il quale qualsiasi compositore farebbe carte false per comporre.

Interview with Frederic Malle (Editions des Parfums Frederic Malle) 1/2

I must confess that the idea of meeting him made me feel both anxious and thrilling in expectation: Frederic Malle is not what you’d call an “everyday meeting”. Why? because he's the visionary innovator who, 10 years ago, created the brand "Editions des Parfums Frederic Malle", which is expressing today’s very best, the true excellence in the perfume industry. The firm any composer would kill to work for.

23 novembre 2010

Animali notturni 1: Absolue pour le Soir (Maison Francis Kurkdjian)

Ci sono profumi che fanno paura. Eppure, nonostante la paura, non puoi non avvicinarli. Ovviamente con circospezione, lentamente, facendo cerchi concentrici sempre più stretti, senza perderli mai di vista... ti avvicini... ti avvicini... e quando ti sembra che siano abbastanza vicini da poterli toccare... bammm! con una zampata ti prendono loro.
Ti sbattono al tappeto, saltano sulla tua pelle e tu non puoi fare a meno di lasciarceli stare per tutto il tempo che vogliono. E quando vorrebbero andarsene, a quel punto, sei tu che non riesci più a fare a meno di loro. Attenti, quindi, a continuare a leggere questa recensione, perchè parliamo di pericolosi animali notturni, che solo per puro caso sono travestiti da profumi. Il primo è Absolue pour le Soir, di Francis Kurkdjian, quello simile ad una tigre del Bengala.

Nocturnal animals 1: Absolue pour le Soir (by Maison Francis Kurkdjian)

Some scents may be frightnening.


Yet, despite fear, sometimes you can't help but approaching them. Obviously very cautiously, slowly making concentric circles closer and closer, without ever losing sight... then you get near... you're almost there ... and when they seem to be close enough to touch... bammm! their paws are already catching you.
You're slammed to the floor, they jump on your skin and you cannot help but let them stay for as long as they want. And then, when they'll be ready to leave you alone, then it's you who cannot do without them anymore. Beware, therefore, to keep reading this review, because we're going to talk about dangerous nocturnal animals, which only by chance have been disguised as perfumes.
The first, Absolue pour le Soir (Maison Francis Kurkdjian) is the one similar to a Bengal tiger.

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http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2010/01/tam-dao-diptyque-2003.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2010/01/unicorn-spell-isabelle-doyen-per-les_14.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2010/01/unicorn-spell-isabelle-doyen-for-les.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2010/01/cuir-de-russie-ernest-beaux-for-chanel.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2010/01/cuir-de-russie-ernest-beaux-per-chanel.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/12/have-you-received-any-scented-gifts-for.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/12/kiehls-musk-oil-e-ten-knize-il-mio.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/12/hiroshima-mon-amour-work-in-progress-3_20.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/12/notes-for-santa.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/12/caro-babbo-natale.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/12/meeting-with-james-heeley.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/12/incontro-con-james-heeley.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/11/donne-da-mangiare.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/11/edible-women.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/11/hiroshima-mon-amour-work-in-progress-2_3544.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/11/hiroshima-mon-amour-work-in-progress-2_24.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/11/epic-for-woman-amouage-2009_04.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/11/epic-for-woman-amouage-2009.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/10/bergamotto-e-benzoino-quelli.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/10/tauleto-wine-fragrance_26.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/10/tauleto-wine-fragrance.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/10/le-fragranze-di-yosh-incontro-con-yosh.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/10/yosh-line-meeting-with-yosh-han.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/10/sono-le-dieci-e-sono-emozionata_1471.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/10/intervista-lorenzo-villoresi.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/09/hiroshima-mon-amour.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/09/pitti-fragranze-new-trends.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/09/pitti-fragranze-i-nuovi-trend.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/09/sniffa-pitti-part-4-last.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/09/sniffa-pitti-4-ultima.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/09/sniffa-pitti-part-3.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/09/sniffa-pitti-parte-3.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/09/sniffa-pitti-part-2.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/09/sniffa-pitti-parte-2.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/09/sniffa-pitti-part-1.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/09/sniffa-pitti-parte-1.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/08/perche-sa-di-erba-appena-tagliatawhy.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/08/i-profumi-delle-cinque-terre_26.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/08/i-profumi-delle-cinque-terre.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/08/il-profumo-e-il-suo-contenitore-22.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/08/perfume-and-its-container-22.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/08/qualche-tempo-fa-nel-topic-chypre-avevo.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/08/design-of-perfume-bottles-evolved.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/06/reazioni.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/06/reactions.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/06/casta-diva-e-patchouli-nobile-1942.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/06/casta-diva-and-patchouli-nobile-1942.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/06/il-colore-del-profumo.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/06/perfumes-colour.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/06/le-labo-labdanum18-e-oud27.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/06/le-labo-labdanum18-and-oud27.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/06/le-labo-rose31-e-vetiver41.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/06/le-labo-rose-31-and-vetiver-41.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/05/chypre-vintage.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/05/vintage-chypres.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/05/basenotes-annual-award_22.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/05/basenotes-annual-award.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/05/piccoli-incidenti-domestici.html
http://bergamttoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/05/small-domestic-accidents.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/05/intervista-interview-with-vero-kern.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/04/alessandro-gualtieri-intervista-al.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/04/alessandro-gualtieri-intervista-al.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/04/esxence-report-23.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/04/sniffatona-ad-esxence-resocontoesxence.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/03/11esima-giornata-dle-profumo-11th.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/03/un-sabato-da-gourmet-2-gourmet-saturday.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/03/un-sabato-da-gourmet-gourmet-saturday.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/03/un-sabato-da-gourmet-gourmet-saturday.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/03/brezza-di-seta-silvio-levi-maurizio.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/03/isfarkand-ormonde-jayne-2007.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/02/valutazioni-genarali-sul-gioco.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/02/il-profumo-d-emeraude-francois-coty.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/02/il-profumo-c-apres-londee-guerlain-1906.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/02/il-profumo-b-soie-rouge-jean-laporte.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/02/il-profumo-alessandro-dellacqua-woman.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/01/il-lusso-di-andare-scuola-22.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/01/il-lusso-di-andare-scuola.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/01/la-linea-esclusiva-di-prada-22.html
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.com/2009/01/la-linea-eslcusiva-di-prada-12-cuir.html

22 novembre 2010

Invio fialette

Ho ricevuto gli indirizzi di tutti tranne quello di Alberto (se non lo ricevo entro domattina, mi toccherà sostituirlo con quello della "riserva" quindi Alberto, fatti sotto!).
Nel frattempo le fialette del gioco sono state impacchettate e partiranno domattina; le riceverete intorno a mercoledì-giovedì. Avrete una settimana di tempo per annusare le 4 fragranze e scrivere la vostra recensione, piccola o grande o come volete voi: tra mercoledì 1 e venerdì 3 dicembre dovrei riceverle tutte, cominciando dalla 1, che sarà la prima ad essere pubblicata.
Vi ricordo che lo scopo non è quello di riconoscere che fragranza è, ma capire il tipo di lavoro che è stato fatto, com'è strutturato, cosa racconta e in che modo; eventualmente riconoscere qualche nota odorosa... raccontare il profumo per come lo sentite, insomma.
 
 
ps
Nebulosa, il partecipante alieno è una persona a me cara, che ha accettato di partecipare al gioco su mia insistenza "Eddài, eddài, partecipa!". Il fatto è che mi faceva così piacere ospitare anche il suo punto di vista... :-)

13 novembre 2010

Blind Test: i partecipanti!

Da Parigi Anna e io abbiamo fatto l'estrazione dei nomi di chi partecipera' al gioco del blind test: Marco, Michiko, Alberto, Roberta, Flinn, Eleonora + 1 partecipante alieno...
Mandatemi i vostri indirizzi dove volete ricevere le fialette: si va in scena!

9 novembre 2010

Incontri profumati presso Caleri

Come promesso, ecco la locandina con tutte le date degli incontri previsti per quest'anno presso la storica profumeria Caleri di Genova.

Giovedì prossimo parleremo delle fragranze di due giovani artisti visivi che da qualche anno sono diventati anche compositori di fragranze: Andy Tauer e Olivier Durbano.
Esploreremo il loro mondo artistico e la loro diversa maniera di comporre.

Per informazioni potete telefonare allo 010 581312.
Allora vi aspetto!

6 novembre 2010

Portrait of a Lady (Dominique Ropion per Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle)

Un paio di giorni fa, grazie a Guido, dello store “Profumo” (Via Brera, Milano), ho avuto la gioia di incontrare l’affascinante Monsieur Frederic Malle. Sì, proprio lui, l’esteta visionario e anticipatore che nel 2000 creò la linea Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, a cui stanno contribuendo tutti i migliori compositori oggi in attività (e molti dei miei preferiti): Dominique Ropion, Jean Claude Ellena, Maurice Roucel, Pierre Bourdon, Olivia Giacobetti… senza contare Carlos Benaim e Sofia Grojsman, che hanno composto le fragranze per la nuovissima linea dedicata agli ambienti. Ma di tutto questo vi scriverò nei prossimi giorni, nel post-intervista che sto preparando. Prima ho voglia di raccontarvi la nuova fragranza, in uscita in questi giorni: Portrait of a Lady.

Dominique Ropion for Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle: Portrait of a Lady

A couple of days ago, thanks to Guido, owner of the store "Profumo" (in central Via Brera, Milan), I had the happy chance to meet fascinating Monsieur Frederic Malle. Yes, the aesthete, the visionary pioneer who, in 2000, created the line “Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle to which all today’s best composers are contributing (and many of then are my favorites): Dominique Ropion, Jean Claude Ellena, Maurice Roucel, Pierre Bourdon, Olivia Giacobetti... not to mention Carlos Benaim and Sophia Grojsman, who composed fragrances of the brand new line of candles and scent diffusers scents for interiors. But I’ll write about all this and more in the next days, in the post-interview I’m preparing.
Now let me introduce you the new fragrance: Portrait of a Lady.

3 novembre 2010

Ottone e Porcellana (Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella)

L’Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella ha deciso di iniziare già da quest’anno i festeggiamenti per il suo quarto centenario (è stata fondata nel 1612) con le due nuove Colonie “Ottone” e “Porcellana”. Quarto centenario. A me fa impressione anche solo scriverlo: non ci sono altre aziende profumiere –in tutto il mondo- che possano vantare una storia così lunga. E anche più lunga, in realtà, perché alcuni tipi di lavorazioni legate alle erbe e alla loro preparazione aveva preso avvio già qualche secolo prima.

Ottone and Porcellana by Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella

Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella has decided to start celebrating its fourth centenary (it was founded in 1612) two years before, with the launch of two brand new Colognes "Ottone" and "Porcellana." Fourth centenary. It sounds fascinating even writing it: there’s no other company in the perfume sector -worldwide- which can boast such a long history. And even longer, actually, because some types of work related to herbs and their preparation had already started a few centuries earlier.

1 novembre 2010

Maison Francis Kurkdjian: APOM (A Piece of Me) pour femme

Grazie alla mia cara AnnaMaria ho potuto provare per un po’ di giorni la versione pour femme di APOM (A Piece Of Me), la fragranza che rappresenta Un Pezzo Di Lui, cioè del suo creatore Francis Kurkdjian.
Mi piace molto, a livello intellettuale, l’idea che dentro l’anima di Monsieur Kurkdjian sia presente anche un pezzetto femminile, che ha a che fare con la sia idea di donna. Anche perché quest’idea tratteggia una donna vivace, e gioiosa, dotata di gran personalità e di un ottimismo incrollabile, capace di dare la scossa a chiunque le si avvicini. Una gran bella donna, mi pare.

APOM (A Piece of Me) by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Thanks to my dear friend AnnaMaria I could try for a while APOM (A Piece Of Me) pour femme, the fragrance that represents a piece of its creator Francis Kurkdjian. On an intellectual level, I appreciate the idea that inside Monsieur Kurkdjian’s soul there’s also something feminine which he’s not afraid of show. Even more so, because it has to do with his the idea of a woman: a bright and cheerful woman, with great personality and an unshakable optimism, capable of giving a shock to anyone who comes close. A really beautiful kind of woman, I think.

30 ottobre 2010

Douceur de Vanille (Les Nereides)

Sarà che io il freddo non lo amo per niente, ma mi sono accorta che in questo periodo privilegio profumi caldi e confortevoli, capaci di scaldarmi un pò anche l’anima, provata dalle prime folate di vento gelido.
Ad esempio, in questo periodo ho ripreso ad indossare un profumo delle Nereides che ho sempre amato tanto: Douceur de Vanille. Più che un profumo alla vaniglia come suggerirebbe il nome, si tratta di un profumo dominato da note soavemente muschiate insieme a luminosissimi e rarefatti muschi bianchi, che abbracciano una vaniglia tenerissima, polverosa e vellutata come cipria, con un leggerissimo accenno mandorlato senza derive gourmand.

Douceur de Vanille by Les Nereides

I don’t like cold weather at all, and in these first really cold days, I realize I’m showing a preference for warm and comfortable scents, able to warm my soul up a bit.
So I started again wearing a perfume by Les Nereides I've always loved so much: Douceur de Vanille.
More than a vanilla scent as the name would suggest, this is a musk scent, dominated by musky notes and bright white musks, embracing the most tender vanilla, soft and, with a faint hint of almond but aiming at no gourmand direction.

28 ottobre 2010

28 minuti

Ok, lo sapete che non sono una che se la tira però mi faceva piacere dirvi che la settimana scorsa la giornalista Barbara Palombelli mi ha intervistata in radio per la trasmissione 28 minuti (il profumo è una materia che l'appassiona parecchio).
Non sono riuscita a scrivervelo per tempo, quindi ve lo scrivo ora e vi invito, se avete 28 minuti di tempo, ad ascoltare, il podcast della trasmissione  qui

27 ottobre 2010

Giochiamo! / Let's play!

Vi ricordate quando, un paio d'anni fa giocammo insieme al blind sniff? AnnaMaria e io abbiamo pensato di riproporre il gioco, che è sempre un bel modo di divertirci imparando qualcosa. Funziona così: i partecipanti riceveranno 4 fialette anonime, contrassegnate da un numero da 1 a 4 (di nicchia o commerciali? Nuove o vintage? Famose o sconosciute? Non vi diremo assolutamente nulla).
Avrete una settimana di tempo per provarle, dopodichè ognuno di voi ne scriverà una recensione, che verrà postata qui. Come è stata percepita la fragranza, se sono state riconosciute delle note, se è stato possibile seguire lo sviluppo, cosa ha suggerito... insomma, c'è posto per qualsiasi commento. Si può anche cercare d'indovinare la fragranza, il marchio o il creatore, ma non è questo lo scopo del gioco. Alla fine le fragranze verranno svelate e ci sarà modo di aggiungere commenti e discutere l'esperienza. Lo scopo del gioco è quello di fare uno sforzo di creatività ed immaginazione per mettere insieme parole che descrivano un profumo. Quindi, non è necessario avere una conoscenza approfondita in materia di profumo. Le fragranze da farvi provare sono state scelte e ora tocca a voi: sorteggerò 6 partecipanti tra tutti quelli che risponderanno a questo post entro la prima settimana di novembre.
Allora, chi ha voglia di giocare?

Do you rember when, a couple of years ago we played together the "blind sniff" game? AnnaMaria and I thought to revive this game, which is always a great way to have fun learning something. It works like this: participants will get 4 anonymous vials, bearing a number from 1 to 4 (niche or commercial? New or vintage? Famous or unknown? Not going to tell you anything).
You'll have a week to try them all, then you'll write a review on everyone of them, which I'll post here: how was the fragrance? any note has been recognized? was it possible to follow the development? what did the scent suggested? there will be place for any comment, even for guesses about the composer, the brand or the name of the scent, even if guessing is not the focus of the game. At the end fragrances will be revealed and there will be the chance to add comments and discuss the experience.
The aim of the game is discussion itself, it's sharing visions and trying ot find appropriate words for perfumed feelings. Fragrances have been selected, now it's your turn: 6 participants will be drawn among all those who will comment this post within the first week of November. So... who is ready to play?

25 ottobre 2010

"Liaisons Dangereuses" e "A Taste of Heaven" (by Kilian)

Nelle settimane scorse ho potuto provare alcuni profumi della collezione “L’Oeuvre Noire Collection”, creata da Kilian Hennessy nel 2007.
Sì, il Kilian in questione di cognome fa proprio Hennessy.
E di nuovo sì, Hennessy è la H del marchio LVMH (laddove le altre tre lettere stanno per Louis Vuitton e Moet), colosso francese del "lusso accessibile": borse da viaggio, liquori e per quello che ci riguarda, profumi (LVMH possiede Guerlain, Kenzo, Dior, Givenchy ecc). Dalle note biografiche che ho raccolto in rete, quindi, la famiglia di Monsieur Kilian sembra essere tra i responsabili delle strategie marketing di questi grandi marchi, che negli ultimi anni hanno lanciato sul mercato numerose fragranze di gusto discutibile, spesso non all’altezza del nome che portano.

"Liaisons Dangereuses" and "A Taste of Heaven" (by Kilian)

In these past weeks I'd the chance to test some perfumes in the "L'Oeuvre Noire Collection", created in 2007 by Kilian Hennessy.
Well, yes, Hennessy is the H in LVMH brand (where the other three letters stand for Louis Vuitton and Moet), the French giant of accessible luxury: travel bags, spirits and, for what we are concerned, perfumes (LVMH owns Guerlain, Kenzo, Dior, Givenchy etc.). As far as I'm entitled to understand by biographical notes I read in the web, Mr. Kilian’s family seems to be among the policy makers of the goup, i.e. among the creators of the brands' strategies which in recent years brought to launch  fragrances of questionable taste, often inconsistent with prestigious names they bear.

19 ottobre 2010

I profumi Agonist

A volte vi parlo di cose che nè voi (forse) nè io (sicuramente) possiederemo mai... ma fa lo stesso. In fondo, non è necessario possedere il dipinto di Omar Galliani che vedete là a lato per parlarne. Sebbene sappia che non sarà mai a casa mia, so anche che esiste; è lì come possibilità e questo è sufficiente perchè il mondo resti un luogo fantastico.
Nemmeno i profumi di Agonist li potrò possedere, credo. Perchè questo marchio svedese concepisce il profumo e il suo contenitore come un tutt'uno, e visto che si fa realizzare le bottiglie da Kosta Boda (nota azienda svedese specializzata in raffinati e costosissimi vetri d’arte), ecco che il concetto profumo+bottiglia non costa meno di 400 euro. Ma ve ne parlo lo stesso.

Agonist Perfumes

Sometimes I write about scents that neither you (maybe) nor I (surely) will ever be able to wear... well, it doesn’t matter.
After all, it’s not necessary to own Omar Galliani’s masterpiece you see leftside to talk about it. Although I know it will never be mine,  it exists as a possibility, and this is enough to make the world a much more interesting place to me.
I won’t ever own Agonist perfumes, either.  Because this Swedish brand conceives scent and its container as a whole, and since they pour the juice into bottles designed by Kosta Boda (renowned Swedish company specializing in sophisticated and expensive glass art), the concept perfume+bottle won’t cost less than 400 euros.

13 ottobre 2010

Primo Incontro Olfattivo - Giovedì 14 ottobre ore 18

Riprendono gli incontri organizzati presso la Profumeria Caleri di Via XXV Aprile (Genova)!


Quest'anno esploreremo le modalità con cui i più famosi autori di fragranze compongono i loro lavori: con quali materie prime preferiscono lavorare, quali strutture compositive danno alle loro fragranze, da dove traggono ispirazione... sarà un percorso affascinante per entrare, ancora più in profondità, nel magico mondo dei Profumi d'autore.
Il primo incontro è Giovedì 14 ottobre alle ore 18: inizieremo a muoverci all'interno del percorso parlando di (e soprattutto annusando) "Strutture compositive, materie prime, creatività".

Gli incontri sono liberi ed aperti a tutti, ed è preferibile dare una telefonata in negozio (010 581312) per confermare la partecipazione.
Vi aspetto!

3 ottobre 2010

Venerdì 8 ottobre a Milano

Venerdì 8 ottobre presento il mio libro "L'Arte del Profumo" a Milano, alla Feltrinelli (spazio LeFel, via XXII Marzo 4), alle ore 18.00.
Sarà con me anche Guido dello store "Profumo" (Via Brera), che porterà alcuni profumi tra quelli recensiti del libro: come potrei mai parlarvi di profumi, senza farveli annusare "dal vero"?
Quindi sarà un'occasione -più che parlare- per divertirci a percorrere insieme un percorso artistico usando non la vista, ma il naso.
Vi aspetto!

30 settembre 2010

Un pò di Formazione / A little Training

Vi segnalo due occasioni di formazione organizzate da Mouillettes&Co.
- Il 26 ottobre lezione di una giornata su “UN SECOLO DI PROFUMI FEMMINILI”: una ricca retrospettiva dei profumi femminili dall'inizio del 20° secolo ad oggi, per riscoprire le fragranze che hanno fatto la storia della profumeria ed interpretare le creazioni contemporanee attraveros la rilettura delle fasi evolutive pregresse.
- Il 4-5 novembre si svolgerà il corso “INTRODUZIONE”: due giornate di introduzione alla tecnica del Profumo ed al linguaggio degli odori, utilissimo per chi desidera:
   - Acquisire, perfezionare, o strutturare le proprie conoscenze in campo olfattivo
   - Sviluppare una cultura profumo
   - Padroneggiare il vocabolario degli odori
   - Saper identificare le principali note di un profumo
Ricordate Maria Grazia Fornasier, l'esperta che ci fece quella bellissima lezione sulle "Materie prime dal Mondo" lo scorso febbraio, durante Esxence? Ecco, il docente dei corsi è proprio lei e i corsi si svolgono presso la sede della sua scuola, a Castelletto Ticino. Per informazioni potete scrivere a  info-corsi@mouillettes-and-co.com, telefonare allo 0331 911853 o andare sul sito di Mouillettes&Co.
Io sto pensando di partecipare alla giornata del 26 ottobre, qualcuno viene con me?

Two training opportunities organized by Mouillettes & Co.
- On October 26th, one-day lesson on "A CENTURY OF WOMEN'S FRAGRANCES”: a rich study of feminine perfumes since the early XXth century to today, to rediscover raw materials that made the history of perfumery and to learn how to read contemporary works, through the previous evolutionary steps.
- On November 4th and 5th instead, will be held the "INTRODUCTION" course. Two days for getting more into the technique and the language of perfume. Very useful for those who want to:

   - Acquire, improve, or structure their knowledge in the olfactory field
   - Develop a culture of perfume
   - Mastering the vocabulary of odors
   - Being able to identify the main notes of a perfume
The courses will be held in Castelletto Ticino. To get information  you can email  info-corsi@mouillettes-and-co.com, call +39 0331 911853 or visit the website Mouillettes&Co.
I’m planning to attend the first of the two; someone coming with me?

28 settembre 2010

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