14 gennaio 2010

The Unicorn Spell (Isabelle Doyen for Les Nez, 2007)

Isabelle Doyens is known and appreciated for many fragrances in the Annick Goutal line she composed, and a couple of years ago she was called by the founder of the brand Les Nez to create the first three fragrances (L'Antimatière, Let Me Play the Lion and The Unicorn Spell) of his new line. Now, other two fragrances have been added to the line: Manoumalia (by Sandrine Videault, which I enjoyed very much) and Turtle Vetiver.
Of the first three, The Unicorn Spell is the one that really moved me. It seems to me that Doyen's easthetics tend to sobriety and measure, towards "chic" and sophistication and probably for this reason, although her works are interesting and very enjoyable, they're unable to conquer me fully, they don't make me vibrate. I find in both AG's fragrances and in Les Nez', the same absence of "shock" which, sometimes, maybe I need. Basically, I'm a "temperamental" kind of person. In fact, the only defect I find in this -otherwise perfect- Unicorn, is a very light, perhaps deliberate tendency to affectation. It's essentially a green-flowery, moist, very graceful with crushed violet leaves. It performs very little movement but a good deal of poetry. It shines with the same bright light of stars, and in its voice you can hear a hint of veiled melancholy. Wearing it reminded me of Guerlain's Apres l'Ondèe, both for the wet, crystal violet, and for the sweet sensation of smiling through tears
Picture: here

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