21 aprile 2010

Turtle Vetiver (Isabelle Doyen for Les Nez, 2009)

A true-to life vetiver, for real vetiver freaks. Produced in just 80 bottles and immediately sold out, this marvel of perfume is the exercise No.1 by Isabelle Doyen with vetiver. Next autumn Les Nez will release another batch of  100 bottles with exercise No.2, a different fragrance exploring other aspects of this same note. But back to exercise # 1: I could test it due to kind Mr. Renè Schifferle, volcanic creator of the brand Les Nez, whom I met in Milan, at Esxence Exhibition.
We had a friendly, lively meeting at my space where, confortably sat on soft sofas, we talked a bit. He told me about his visions in creating the brand Les Nez, and how he appreciates Isabelle Doyen's previous works (Let me play the Lion, L'Antimatiere and The Unicorn Spell) and Sandrine Videault's Manoumalia. In fact they're very original and temperamental works, by authors who really put something of themsleves in them. Turtle Vetiver is part of the Turtle Project, an artistic group (website) of which Isabelle is member, contributing to art with different expressive means.
Then I asked him about Turtle Vetiver and he made me smell it on blotter, then on skin. Vetiver here is surdosed up to 12%, and only associated with two other components (the shortest formula I've ever met), which makes vetiver literally pop up. The root, wet, moldy, hoarse, almost pungent green, jumps out of the bottle with a loud laugh and sits on the skin for hours and hours, with a presence that erases any other scented sensation nearby. There's just it. No side dishes: no flowery sweetness, no aseptic white musks, nothing to dampen its exhuberant burst of personality. A vetiver not for everyone, only for those who love and tune in with this note and thus like wearing it raw, "On the Rocks." Brava Isabelle! And thank you Mr. Schifferle for the time you spent with me!

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