16 giugno 2010

Biche dans l'Absinthe (Victoire Gobin Daudè, 2002)

I had heard wonders about this fragrance, created by Victoire Gobin Daudè, a talented young French composer, active between 2002 and 2005. Her five creations (Sous le Buis, Biche dans l'Absinthe, Jardins Ottomans, Nuit au Désert, Sève Exquise), now very rarely found and at prohibitive prices, are something "legendary". A bit like when a young, talented singer makes one, two albums of truly exceptional beauty and then dies, leaving us regretful for having lost his precious contribution to music. A bit like Jeff Buckley, in fact. Because Victoire, at least for now, is no longer composing.

However, a few weeks ago my friend AnnaMaria (Nyneve)  got a little decant, and after wearing it a little, sent me the rest.
I must say that I liked it. I found it rich in a very rare quality in today's fragrances: subtlety. That is neither shyness nor lack of projection. The fragrance well present, but delicately. Because of this feature, La Biche dans l'Absinthe is a fragrance that would please the great E. Roudnitska, whose compositions favoured subtlety and delicacy.
The absinthe note (wormwood) dominates the scent from beginning to end, but with a very fresh and ethereal facet, a bit unreal, infusing the scent with light and crystal transparency. Absinthe is accompanied by a note of oats, gently caressing and poudrèe and immortelle (Helichrysum), which adds a slightly spicy/licorice character. I feel this materials melt completely into one another, with a result of remarkable finesse and balance.
AnnaMaria detected also a hint of animal musk very delicate but perceivable that led her to define it "the shy girlfriend of Muscs Kubla Khan". Unfortunately, I would have been happy to smell it but ... nothing. Nor I detected the cumin note many paople wrote about. On me, it shows "only" a silvery freshness, subtle and ethereal.
A parfum de peau, intimate, restrained, ideal for enjoying the serene joy of small things. Persistency, while not exceptional, is ok, being an eau de toilette. What a pity it's no longer in production!

Again, thank yoy Nyneve for

2 commenti:

Anonimo ha detto...

ho potuto comprare a parigi nelle "galeries lafayette" nel 2002 sia "cerbiatto nell assenzio " che " notte nel deserto" due fragranze eccezionali per qualità di essenze utilizzate e sopratutto incredibilmente originali. sfortunatamente non ho più avuto occasione di trovarle ne in Italia ne in Francia. Trovo veramente azzeccato il paragone di gobin daudè con jeff buckley li amo entrambi

Bergamotto e Benzoino ha detto...

Ciao Anonimo/a! Che bei gusti che hai, e come li condivido! So che Victoire è ben viva e vegeta, ma è completamente sparita dalla circolazione e non se ne sa più niente!