30 giugno 2010

L’Eau Serge Lutens (Serge Lutens, 2010)

This afternoon I was out with AnnaMaria and we decided to get to a perfumery store to try again l’Eau de Lutens, again on skin. The fragrance is dominated by the fresh, metallic feeling of aldehydes, clean notes of the "white musk" kind, and by other dry, ozonic notes of the "new freshness" kind (d’you know those molecules that cannot be called "detergent" because it sounds bad and disrespectful? Exactly those. In any case, they do convey an idea, so I see nothing wrong in using them if you are able to allow them dignity, as in this case). Please, before reading on, look at this videopresentation of the perfume, because it will make some concepts clearer.
Well, the association of aldehydes, whites musks, ozonic and detrgents notes results in a very clean sensation, shining like sunlights on snow. It reminded me those brighteners, added to detergents, which will make your laundry shine. Laundry gets cleaned, indeed, but "extra-white-immaculate" sensation is only an optical illusion, caused by the light refraction on fabrics covered with tiny bits of these brighteners. Here, this scent is fresh, clean, and “extra-white-immaculate”. Afetr all, "feeling clean is the real luxury" is the concept conveyed by the video. I found this scent exceptionally well made and consistent, from top to bottom.
Someone said it's so fresh and sparkling that doesn’t even seem a Serge Lutens work. Instead I think that, if anything, it’s the most Lutens of all the line! Key feature of the Master, in fact, is to design his scents in an extremely personal way, and that sometimes means, indeed, "extreme".  I think of Filles en Aiguilles, Arabie, Tubereuse Criminelle ... those are ideas, concepts taken to extremes, the results of his particular taste and refined aesthetics. Well, here the concept is exactly the same. Only, instead of exaggerating his idea of Arabia, of the Mediterranean spot, or other sensations, this time he  explodes the concept of fresh-clean, and treates this subject in an exceptional way, as usual: if it must be fresh-clean, it will be shining like nothing before, with a “steely”, dry consistency lasting hours. His usual spicy notes, here would've been simply useless.
Unfortunately after a while my skin turns it into something sour, nervous, irritating and therefore I believe it was not made for me, but I imagine that on other skins it might be intriguing.

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