3 giugno 2010

A Perfume's Lady: Maria Candida Gentile (#2)

This post originates here
Gershwin and Exultat are the two that, instead, show a more traditional pyramid. Gershwin is a tribute to the famous "Rhapsody in Blue" by the American composer, and is essentially a citrus scent. Essential oils (lemon, bitter orange, grapefruit) of the highest quality, and they are flanked by a very bright incense with a dry, metallic undertone that binds well citrus and remains on the skin long after that citrus fruits are evaporated.
Exultat takes off with a fruity sugariness (sweet orange), a joyous and exhilarating feeling which reaches the woody base notes after two subsequent steps: first the citrus get smoky thanks to an elegant, dry, smoky incense note, and then a tenderness of violet leaves emerges from the heart, barely perceptible but characterizing this unusual fragrance. The composition closes with the roughness and moldy green feeling of vetiver and Texas cedarwood, which gives the violet a shady, gloomy look, irresistibly attractive.

All fragrances by Maria Candida Gentile Maitre Parfumeur (here her website) are Eau de Parfum, and this seems consistent with her exuberant taste, infusing almost tactile connotations to her scents, thus requiring a higher concentrations. Notes in her scents are sound, articulate, her composition do have a weight…I actually see them well on someone with personality and unusual taste.

I must say I’m, especially happy to speak of her. Italian authors in selective perfumery are not a lot (but they’re good!) ... moreover in this case Maria Candida is a woman, and from Liguria, too (like me). So… Bravo Maria Candida, keep it up!

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