19 luglio 2010

Les Ailes du Desir (B. Duchaufour for Frapin, 2010)

And now the scent: Les Ailes du Désir is essentially a floral-leathery fragrance, perfect on both male and female skin. It offers some raw materials of high value, that in fact, when you wear the fragrance, make the difference.
At the opening you smell a powerful alcoholic note that Bertrand would have liked Cognac, but which didn't interact well with the later development of the composition and so was replaced by a precious rum absolute (6-11 thousand euros per kg).
Among the top notes you can also detect davana (an interesting green, spicy note with something fruity) and red berries.

In the heart, jasmine absolute and Bulgarian rose give a fleshy, luscious feeling, balanced by a handful of hot spices like cloves and Ceylon cinnamon.
The composition gains structure from precious woods of the base (cedar and patchouli), ciste, myrrh, and a leather note breathing from the heart on. The tonka bean and vanilla give a soothing sensation and sew all the notes with a soft-light effect, like a candle.
Some beautiful animal notes like ambergris and castoreum close the composition exhaling an animal breath on the entire composition.


The result is a very intense, vibrant fragrance, which reminded me of Dzongkha (L'Artisan Parfumeur), and Baume du Doge (Eau d'Italie), for the spicy richness of the heart, the glittering myrrh and for the feeling that the fragrance literally "takes you away" in a faraway place. You wear it and you cannot ignore it because it speaks to you all he time, and this thing is very precious to me!
With the previous Frapin scents, Les Ails du Desir shares the same liquour-type quality and intensity, but at the same time I found it also different, more modern, somehow.
And the bottle is different, too: 50 ml of Absolue de Parfum hosted in a dark red glass square bottle.

The name of the scent, "Wings of Desire” is a reference to Wim Wenders' 1987 movie, where the angel Damiel falls in love and decides to give up immortality to become human and meet the woman he loves. "Desire moves everything, isn’t it?" said Bertrand, and I couldn’t agree more than that.

These are only my first impressions after wearing it one day: I look forward to wearing it again! 

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