31 agosto 2010
Bleu, the new masculine by Chanel
And I discovered that Bleu in France has already been launched. Triple hooray!
The last masculine launch by Chanel was Allure Homme (1999) and with some flanker exceptions, a new vision of the “Chanel man” was missing since then.
Just to recap, the four Chanel musketeers are:
- Pour Monsieur (1955 Henri Robert), a very classic fragrance, an extremely proportioned masculine chypre, with citrus and vetiver made brilliant by aldehydes, with a beautiful oakmoss at the base (I haven’t tested the recent reformulation, which I guess has lost the oak moss). Still very popular and rightly so, because it’s elegance condensed.
- Antaeus (1981, Jacques Polge), beautifully calm, serene and majestic: the garden aromas melt into a forest of precious woods, enhanced by an irresistible accord sandal/labdanum lasting a lifetime.
- Egoiste (1990, J.P.), a woody-spicy with great personality, characterized by a brilliant note of coriander, one of the finest men's fragrance ever; dry, sharp, ironic, perfect also on a woman.
- Allure (1999, J.P) is not something we can define the monolith of originality: citrus topnotes sitting on a woody base is a stereotype of many masculines already smelled dozens of times, but I still find it pleasant, very wearable, longlasting. Well, maybe not at the celestial height of the three that preceded it, but certainly worth to carry the name Chanel.
Sadly, Bleu, is not even worthy of being on the same shelf. I usually don’t write about things I don’t like but… this is CHANEL, wasn’t I allowed to high expectations?
Clearly, it isn’t Polge’s nor Sheldrake’s fault, who are two geniuses. The brief is clear: "You must stay below this cost”. Well, below that cost (which I guess around 10-12 euros per kg.) even if your name is Polge/Sheldrake, you can only create something like this: an aromatic cologne of no interest, focussing on lavender and rosemary (but it could be a lower quality of lavender, shallow, thin, metallic like lavandin) and some woods of whose nature I couldn’t say anything, some synthetic molecules sewing everything.
Maybe Chanel is widening the gap: the Exclusifs increasingly exclusive; the commercial line, way too commercial. Yes, I can envision a marketing strategy behind this. But I don’t appreciate it.