19 ottobre 2010
After all, it’s not necessary to own Omar Galliani’s masterpiece you see leftside to talk about it. Although I know it will never be mine, it exists as a possibility, and this is enough to make the world a much more interesting place to me.
I won’t ever own Agonist perfumes, either. Because this Swedish brand conceives scent and its container as a whole, and since they pour the juice into bottles designed by Kosta Boda (renowned Swedish company specializing in sophisticated and expensive glass art), the concept perfume+bottle won’t cost less than 400 euros.
Despite all this, I think they’re worth a post on their own. The perfumes, I mean, because the bottles ... well one is really beautiful and you see it in the pic, but I find all the others embarrassing and, to be honest, I'd never keep them in my house, nor even if anyone should give one to me.
But I understand they’re an important part of all the thing " The ambition behind Agonist is to combine two traditional and beautiful crafts- The art of perfumery and the art of glassmaking. We believe that a fragrance deserves it's packaging and vice versa. Most brands just package their fragrances in mass-produced bottles which are thrown away after it's been used. We try to have a more sustainable and poetic approach to our craft, offering a piece of handcrafted glass to keep and unique fragrances to refill. Our customers believe in quality and beauty and will keep and let their children inherit their Agonist flacons."
Interesting but, as far as perfumes are concerned, absolutely useless.
Instead, as far as perfume is concerned, Agonist so far launched three scents, "Kallocain" a limited edition, "The Infidels" and "Liquid Crystal", signed by Fabrice Pellegrin, launched in this period.
I got tiny vials of the "The Infidels" and "Liquid Crystal" to wear, and I was fascinated by both: they possess significant presence on the skin lasting at least 8 hours, with a truly remarkable body and roundness.
Both are soffused with a very peculiar light and atmosphere, which I can define only by oppositions: not restraint, yet nor open; not melancholic, yet not serene; rigid climate sometimes does give birth to a different mood and feel.
"The Infidels" combines floral, woody and animal notes in an unusual and very well sewed way, so much so that I couldn’t understand exactly what notes are in it, the feeling is that of a single set, impacting the nose with a certain strength.
So for once, I copy the pyramid as presented in their website (here): blueberry (which I didn’t detect), cumin and bergamot in the top, lavender and magnolia in the heart, tonka bean, patchouli and labdanum at the base. A deep, even dark scent of stunning character where woody notes get particularly animalic and intense. I think many people won’t find at ease wearing this, but I was completely won over.
Liquid Crystal" opens with a whip of bergamot and cumin, then a very soft lavender joins in; it’s a very warm, aromatic, smooth note, and certainly it’s a lavender absolue, not essence. The heart is characterized by a woody-green feeling, created by a delicate vetiver+ something slightly bitter licorice-type like immortelle, all wrapped in a cloud of coumarin. There is also, in the background, an animalic note I couldn’t determine, which bridges consistently with cumin and which is also present in “The Infidels”. It might be costly ambergris.
If now you’re thinking “Ok, just another lavender+ coumarine perfume” you’re wrong, this composition shows that it’s still possible to create something quite different with rather “ordinary” notes. Again, creativity is all you need, and if this is the Swedish way to perfume I find it amazing, and look forward someone else to follow it soon.
Recently, Agonist decided to create an easier bottle to be sold at a lower price. Maybe they realized that there’s plenty of people who would love to buy their perfumes even without all that cumbersome and expensive glass?