9 dicembre 2010

Blind Test #2

Fragrance #2 was "niche": Iroaz from the Breton brand Lostmarc'h. The idea of Antoine Vuillermet, creator of the brand, was to create a rose blooming near the ocean, on a beach at the end of the world. However, none of you (except Michiko, Alberto and Marco hinted ot it) identified that the fragrance is built around a quite recognizable and powerful character: rose. 

Perhaps the difficulty of identifying the queen of flowers arises from the fact that here she’s been treated in a rather unusual way (coupled with in ozonic notes, which Nebulosa pointed out clearly), but in any case, this is basically a rose perfume.  The composition isn’t necessarily characterized by harmony in the accords: the marine feeling joining the flowery notes can inspire or putting aback (Flinn). In any case it’s true that this fragrance doesn’t have a particular evolution, all of you have identified the feeling of stillness. Almost everyone, instead, caught the general idea of freshness, youth, clean. I like the final sentence by Alberto, who tracks back two famous roses: Paris (Sophia Grojsman, 1983) a rose-violet scent well structured and rather flashy; Shocking (I’ve never smelt the 1937 original by Jean Carles) is a rose fragrance, too, but enriched with animalic notes and full-bodied, intense flowers. I don’t find here the same opulent roundness and adult femininity of Paris and Shocking, but I understand the “rose lineage” and the diffusive power, certainly significant in all three cases.

The development of this scent is sudden, silent, almost restraint (probably due to the presence of rose), it conveys a sense of lightness and well-being... I cannot imagine it on a star, that is, the principal character at the center of the stage but on someone working backstage. I see a girl, not a teenager but a girl that age where puberty has given way to the desire for independence; with the unconfidence of a person still struggling to overcome fears .. this girl is walking in a busy street, with here head down as if she felt unconfortable under the gaze of passers-by; from time to time she fixes her hair behind her ear, doesn’t like leaving traces behind her. A very delicate fragrance, enriched with a calm, mystical sensuality.

At first it seems citrusy, fresh, young. It 's the first impression, then a strange note that I don’t appreciate emerges, then softens after a while, returning pleasant. Citrus fruits, flowers, green, spices? The evolution is intriguing and surprising. I feel it a day fragrance keeping you up all day!

A fresh morning rose featuring intense, very defined top notes is accompanied by a halo of wood and tea; then it evolves into a classic accord of orris and violet, not strong, harmless according to the dictates of modern perfumery. The fragrance ends with a strong persistence of aquatic notes. If I were interested in a fragrance where rose is predominant I’d turn to other of interpretation of the queen of flowers. I imagine the woman wearing this fragrance as dynamic, committed, not snobby, not at all flashy, not interested in leaving a distinctive olfactory mark, but who’s looking for approval by creating around her an atmosphere of modern freshness. Probably her mother wore YSL’s Paris and her grandmother Schiaparelli’s Shocking.

The very first approach was very positive, the scent impacts my nostrils with very light floral notes, clean and straight. My mind and nose –with still little experience- record a clean mix of uncertain development. Overall it’s round and well defined, flowery and warm at the same time, emanating its strength at all times. Then a velvety sensations comes in after about 15 minutes and I seem to pick up hints of rose and aldehydes (maybe it's my Tom of Finland that confuses me). I didn’t get anything special and certainly from what I understand, it is far better developed and structured than the content of vial number 1. I’m not a big fan of this kind of scents, it doesn’t stimulate positive thoughts or travels of particular interest

Test paper (the juice is transparent, clear). At first all the notes are fresh, delicate, citrus and flowers (orris, lily of the valley?). It 's a very intense smell, but almost shy in opening, you have to stick the nose right on the touche to perceive it. Gradually notes rise and get green, the image is of a bright light in the morning, a crisp morning with clean air. After 10 min. you get the rose (damascena?), But accompanied by a background of wood or smoke, which makes it a bit blurred, as if it remained hidden behind a veil (a burka?!). The rose sits there until the end, waiting quietly, without being too obvious... On the skin the initial sensation of coolness and greenery, clean air is more pronounced (a morning perfume, to start with optimism!), but softer and sweeter. It leaves no "trail", it feels good up close to the nose. After 10 min. the rose is less defined, dustier with short persistence, still leaving a nice feeling on the skin. What a difference between the paper and the skin! However this scent imparts a sense of joy, deliciously stimulating the beginning of a day, undemanding... will not become one of my perfumes, but I’d wear it every now and then, when I feel no particular need for more determined fragrances, and, given the lack of persistence, to be able to spray something stronger, a few hours later.
Perfume? murmured the astonished flinn’s nostrils. This thing is a concoction of flowery/soapy notes with no evolution for hundreds of years, the same as plastic bags in the environment. Family? Camay Floral. This product is born, grows and dies within the baskets of sales, touching € 12.90 (hasten!). But without ever exceeding € 14.90. I call it over to the Perfumista Charter of Rights! This product may well solve the “gift” issues of any twelve-year-old girl. Since (recently) I turned thirteen, I’ve been forced to wash it off very quickly

It start as soft/smooth creamy as a pink lipstick with a green/yellow lip pencil a bit sour, peppery, burning. A slightly sweet mixture of red, sugary fruit, struggling to get out because that green/yellow side I met at the opening restrains it. An aquatic scant, if I may say, unusual, because the water is dense and a bit cloudy, containing poisonous lotus flowers. My skin “eats” it, is a watercolor painting.

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