6 dicembre 2010

Blind Test N.1

For less than thirty euros, you can find industrial perfumes well executed. The author of this fragrance is Olivier Cresp, a Maestro of perfumery, authoring, among others, Angel (1992, T. Mugler), Light Blue (2001, Dolce and Gabbana), Ange ou Demon (2006, Givenchy ) Midnight Poison (2007, Christian Dior). Here he worked (with Marie Salamagne and Jacques Cavallier) for Yves Rocher, at a fragrance released in 2009 and called "So Elixir".
It’s a fruity/floral, a family that in the past 10 years has seen hundreds, thousands of launches one after another, and indeed a certain "familiar" feel has been detected: none of the reviewer used the word "original" to define it. Good: the similarity is to be found especially with a huge hit like Angel, and Dune (Dior) in the top/heart accords. Although not particularly original, So Elixir is a well-built scent, and Flinn recognized the mastery of the composition, and the fact that it’s a quite good industrial one. Notes are sewn well, after a short living citrus burst that all have recognized, you can hardly cut it into pieces: rose and jasmine (cited by nebulosa and michiko), woods and incense (nebulosa again), vanilla and cotton candy noticed by arianna and alberto is in fact vanilla, tonka bean and probably undecalactone a note reminiscent of caramel. More or less all the reviewers have caught the fundamental characteristics of the fragrance:
- The floral/tropical/gourmand aspect,
- The smoothness/softness/general sensation of warmth,
-  The roundness, and "sound" presence on skin
Curious and funny, someone is reminded of winter (Eleonora), someone the sea (Marco), someone the tropics (Alberto)!

The first perception is very pungent, and it’s already perceptible before opening the plastic bag. Something reminiscent of a very cold Winter, of those days when the sky is so clean blue that almost hurts your eyes, and you can see snow-capped mountains. After a few seconds the scent features a warmer, velvety and reassuring voice... I close my eyes and the image of a warm, cozy home joins in. Dim light of ambery color generated only by the fireplace; a few candles scattered here and there... a warm shelter in a cold winter day.

I admit that I like this fragrance, it smells somehow familiar. Initially I detect a flower, then I’m impressed by what I recognize as vanilla and cotton candy; even cherry, for a moment. After a few minutes something more pungent joins in hititng the nostrils; but it ends up comfortably. I find it fascinating, warm, reassuring.

It opens with unknown white flowers, which gently give way to a lollipop cherry carnival with notes of crisp caramel. Then, basenotes get in very gourmand, citrusy and licorice (And here, soap and water everything washed away...). I’d say Floral Gourmand family. It’s an industrial scent, not bad nor fantastic, with a very clear evolution –maybe due to a certain degree of mastery in the composition– raw materials aren’t first quality, but not too bad, too. The name? Something like Delice de Cartier (may be a flanker, not the most famous) and since it carries a famous name I can’t throw it completely away… but it might very well be a Bond N.9...

It opens with intense notes of sparkling citrus and pineapple, which gradually dissolve, leaving a fragrant composition of white, exotic flowers, wrapped in gourmand puffs of vanilla and spices. It reminds the joyful, tropical atmosphere and It closes with notes of candied fruits. A fragrance evocative of a tropical vacation, it makes you dream of going away from winter and getting lost in nature. A young summer fragrance for positive, romantic personality.

The color is transparent, clear. It opens with a short citrus note, which introduces a delicate floral bouquet, bright, spring notes (Jasmine? Lily of the valley? Rose?). After 5 minutes a note sounding higher than the others jumps in, and fills the space: I cannot associate this scent with a natural element, but I can be sure it’s exactly the same note starring in "Euphoria" by C. Klein, one of my favorites! By the time this note remains, hot and sweet, and doesn’t seem to "give way" to anything else, with a sweet arrogance: a beautiful woman, sensual and adult who wants the center of the stage, it’s still there 5 hours after, full and intact! Trying it on my skin, initial notes mingle with each other, but in an almost discordant way, while the central note is more "diluted", less clear and pleasant, almost sour.


A flower; the famous Italian statement “Guests, like fishes, stink from the third day”; a red light with no beginning nor end; to tell it simple, something bothering me very soon. Woods (sandalwood? even oud?), spices and vetiver, a caramel/green tea undertone which reminds me of the soft skin of the faces of dolls (a little jasmine, maybe?). At the base, something reminds incense; as strong as a Montale but with some kind of ozonic feeling, the departure gives me headache. I think it could be very successful in areas such as Japan, where it could be the right companion for Mango Manga.

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