18 maggio 2011

Zeta (Andy Tauer, 2011)

Thanks to Nyneve who gave me a little vial, I could wear Zeta, Andy Tauer’s new fragrance, for a while.
Zeta is basically Andy’s homage to linden blossom, and the CO2 extraction (ie carbon dioxide) returns exactly the euphoric sweetness that was lacking in other linden-based compositions. But -and this is something I particularly appreciated- linden blossom has been transformed from the central character of the play, to little more than an excuse, a pretext to talk about this period of the year: late spring/early summer, emerald-green fields awash in golden light, afternoons spent under trees to read, play and flirt, dressed in white linen, without any disturbing thought or worries.
Lemon, bergamot and sweet orange open with a ray of light of irresistible energy; orange blossom - used both as essential oil (neroli) and as absolute- is the pin that Andy chose to rotate the scent from a flowery/green feeling, fresh and refined (orange blossom joins with ylang ylang) and a sweet/honeyed feeling, playful and even sexy (orange blossom joins with linden blossom). Very interesting.
But there's more: the base accord is composed of rich, warm notes typical of classic perfumery (orris, sandalwood and vanilla).
In short, it’s as if the perfume was built on pairs of opposites: not only the green/sweet heart creates a contrast, but also the head/heart made of fresh and light notes contrast with  warm and caressingt base; also the general form of the fragrance and some raw materials are 100% contemporary and bright, while the base features a quite classic and elegant accord... I found Zeta one of the most technically complex fragrances in Andy Tauer’s range: it takes an exceptional talent to master such opposite sensations, and come to a result of great "naturalness" and lightweight. Zeta is a true jewel!

Zeta is the first of a new line of "Collectibles" scents, that will always be available –it’s not a limited edition- but whose scent will depend on the smell of the raw materials collected. That is, the batch of bottles Andy is producing now is going to smell different from next year’s production.

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