21 luglio 2011

Sweet Redemption by Kilian (Calice Becker, 2011)

This week I've been trying the new Kilian launch "Sweet Redemption" by Calice Becker and I'm writing on this because I found it extremely pleasant and very well executed. Notes include orange blossom, petit grain, vanilla, myrrh, opoponax, benzoin and incense; when I read them I tought I'd get an overly sweet and banal praline with the specific gravity of lead, but instead...

... the result is bright, modern, sweet in the gourmand sense but without the sensation of sweetness binding to something definite.

Maybe because the base, warm and rich in fascinating resins, clings to the brilliant sweet/poudrèe opening of vanilla and orange blossom, thus silencing the louder and sweeter aspects.
In any case, if it's true that in the "Oeuvre Noire" collection Calice Becker has the opportunity to work with raw materials of rare beauty and value, it's also true that without talent, only with myrrh and vanilla you're not getting anywhere special. Here, she managed to balance delicacy and temperament in a brilliant way, with a soft and sensual effect suggesting the tenderness of a hug. And since the name suggests the idea that -after a period of conflicts- someone is making peace at last, I'say a hug is just the right feeling to look for.


Somehow, it recalled me "Quand vient la Pluie" by Guerlain (exclusive line, unfortunately only available in Paris), not because it has notes in common (not any) but for the general feeling, indefinably gourmand, keeping interest up all the time.
If gourmand is done this way, I might become a huge fan!

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