7 settembre 2011

New from Etat Libre d'Orange: Archives 69

In recent days I’ve been testing the new “Archives 69” by Christine Nagel for Etat Libre d'Orange. 69 is the number of the building hosting ELDO’s headquarters in Paris (Rue du Dèsir), a place -as they proudly call it- of olfactory "libertinage”, meaning that their perfumes are conceived to titillate people’s imagination (both erotic and perfume-wise: entering the ELDO world, boundaries become blurred).
They may evoke men’s exuberant virility (Je Suis Un homme, Fat Electrician), women with maternal and friendly personalities (Eau de Protection) or seductive and a little childish (Noel au Balcon), or sensual and provocative (Nombril Immense), as well as lively gay eroticism (Tom of Finland, Secretions Magnifiques), strong personalities dominated by the senses (Rien, Incense & Cigarettes) or minimalist and spiritual souls (Like This).
In fact, beyond the crazy names characterized by more or less explicit sexual suggestions, there are extremely contemporary scents, often featuring surprising accords, but always crafted tastefully and thus wearable by anyone (ok, there are exceptions but… if it weren’t so, ELDO would be a boring brand and we wouldn’t wait eagerly for new releases).
Archive 69 was announced as the summa of the brand’s philosophy, a fragrance to explore all life’s and love’s possibilities at 360°, a perfume to free the senses, the scent of sensual liberation.
Putting aside the press-pack nonsense, I did like the scent. I found it a well executed work on counterpoint, based on the concept of opposites which attract-repel one-another.
One side features an accord tangerine/red fruit/plum, sweet and juicy but not too sugary, and the other, the accord pepper/incense/camphor, rough and spicy. The feeling this scent conveys is that of a game of opposites: yin/yang, child/adult, exuberance/structure, light/dark, with the two accords always perfectly separated, present and recognizable (it’s not a marriage…just a game), giving an exciting, vibrant feel, capturing attention and holding it for hours, with a good projection but without overdoing.
It’s the name/concept, that I don’t recognize here: more than the philosophical summa of the brand’s values, I got it –much less poetically- as a welcome demonstration that it’s still possible to play with fruit in a captivating and absolutely non-trivial way.
Then, call it as you like!

Etat Libre D'Orange website

Nessun commento: