2 gennaio 2012

Odin's N.03 "Century" (2009)

Odin is a New York based chain of clothing and lifestyle stores devoted primarily to men, which a couple years ago decided to launch its own line of perfumes. The first four fragrances, commissioned to DROM fragrance composers are inspired by places with a rich tradition in perfumery: 01 Sunda (India), 02 Owari (China and Japan), 03 Century (Europe), 04 Petrana (Jordan and Middle East), have been reached by other two (06 Amanu and 07 Tanoke) which I haven't smelled yet.
They're characterized by a somehow more European than American taste, that is, imbued with a certain kind of smooth, whispered sophistication, almost understated.
I really liked the one named Petrana, featuring a delicate iris-violet-heliotrope accord, shining with a fragile violet light on a base of vetiver and white musk. Both my husband and I wore it for a few days, and on men's skin it seems particularly interesting, misty, watery, almost melancholic.
But what really won me was Century, the fragrance dedicated to Europe, and I'm writing about it not because it's the best in the line but, precisely, because it's the one I like best.

The fascinating central accord of birch/cypress/oakmoss with its smoky, salty, dry and earthy character, supported by myrrh, ambergris, vetiver and patchouli has an otherworldly, magical presence which takes my mind away.  The play among dry and salty sensations is never overly astringent, since it's well balanced by opposing notes (in homeopathic dose) which gently blunt any harshness.

The four scents aren't enveloped in complicated intellectualization, nor they take to long journeys full of surprising implications, I'd better describe them as a simple and direct, being built in a rather classical way, like soft, smelling carpets on which shine one-two protagonist notes, more likely natural and quite sophisticated as myrrh, ambergris, pink pepper, Amyris wood, birch, orris root... In short, what they lose in originality or complexity, they gain in a relaxed sophistication which is consistent with Odin's brand values.
The only negative note rests in the duration: while using even heavy raw materials which, in some cases have themselves the function of fixatives, the dilution has watered them down a little, and the result is that fragrances live too short for my personal taste. I thought it's a deliberate choice, but I cannot help but notice that wearing grey amber or orris root and able to smell them for a couple of hours only, can be frustrating. In any case they do perform much better on clothing, so spray on scarves, cuffs and collars or sweaters (but not on light colors!) and enjoy!
I don't always write about the pack but in this case I found it sober, solid, nicely consistent with the content.
Odin Website here!

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