10 febbraio 2012

Divine: l'Ame Soeur 2.0 (that is, 2011 version)


To celebrate the twenty-fifth anniversary of the launch of the perfume L'Ame Soeur,  the Breton house Divine has asked for a reformulation. As I've already had occasion to express -vigorously, ideed- I'm absolutely opposed to perfume reformulation because they deprive aficionados of the emotions connected with the scent they choose and have been wearing -sometimes for decades. In fact, if a perfume is not exactly "that one",  the areas of recognition are not activated, the brain doesn’t click, and all the expectation of joy and wellbeing connected with the scent remain behind a closed door forever. The sense of frustration and loss can make one furious. But in this case I'm happily speaking about L'Ame Soeur for two good reasons: the first is that for a while the original version will still be available in the online shop, and those who love it will have enough time to get used to 2.0. The second reason is that the new one is even better than the original, and since it doesn't happen so often, it's absolutely worth talking about it!

In fact, I approached the new version with some diffidence, but after a couple of tests I noticed  I kept asking myself "What is this wonderful scent in the air?!? Oh it's me!. And since it kept happening over and over again, I had to realize it's a great scent, even better than the previous one (which I finished but I remember very well). Basically it's a luminous and sophisticated aldehydic floral, where aldehydes are used or in a lesser amount or in a higher dilution than version 1.0, because now they offer an even more shiny and dewy feeling, with an almost undetectable presence. A very natural and fresh note of bergamot is added to the top accord, lasting until the heart of the composition and over, so I guess bergamot is coupled -brilliantly because the detachment goes unfelt- with a synthetic counterpart stretching it out indefinitely. Great option, executed with great skill. Under the aldehydes sings a chorus of gentle but loud flowers, including a superb note of jasmine paired with ylang ylang to make the most of its fresh/green facet which connects well also with bergamot in the top, as well as Bulgarian rose and rose de Mai with its fresh and pungent note. The whole stands on a base of vetiver of a delicate shade of green, grey amber and liatrix (deer's tongue, I think is its common name, I've never smelled it but should be a warm, green, woody note). Valuable raw materials, used wisely to create an impalpable satin veil, in a delicate shade of turquoise, uniformly smooth and silky. A pleasure to wear on bare skin.
The reformulation is curated by Yann Vasnier, who had already composed the original;  working on a more modern structure he chose to give it a more lively and dynamic touch, eliminating any drift towards rètro or “Grand Dame” feelings, or even those soapy-squeaky clean aspects that sometimes aldehydic florals may feature. The result is a clean bouquet of fresh flowers, lit by a gentle light, yet very determined to blow for hours with a minimum of evolution, but never too far from its initial path.
You should definitely go and give it a try, possibly on skin. And I recommend gentlemen to do it also, since on some of them aldehydic florals get even more transparent, clean and inviting.
Divine website here

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