9 maggio 2012

Andy Tauer: Miriam, or as eclectism as an aesthetic choice

In the beginning, there was "L'Air du Desert Marocain", the mesmerizing fragrance that put him on the map of artistic perfumery. Then a young perfumer, Andy was still in training and the use of extraordinary materials, assembled in a new and daring way, surdosed, distorted, driven to their limit had led to the creation of perfumes such as "Le Maroc pour elle", “Vetiver Dance”, “Lonestar Memories”, “Une Rose Chyprèe”, “Carillon pour un Ange”. Perfumes with intense personalities, bold, uncompromising,  carrying an exciting view on fragrance. 
Then Andy took an unexpected turn: he experimented with synthesis, creating three fragrances for the "Pentachords" series: “Verdant”, “Auburn” and “White”, each composed of 5 synthetic molecules.

 The experiment thrilled someone and disappointed others, who felt somehow "betrayed" by this choice, not recognizing the composer they had loved. The fact is Pentachords differ much from previous creations: they're completely abstract perfumes, and don't feature those precious natural raw materials that Andy knows how to "play" very well.
Few months ago Andy told me "In these past years I grew a lot, and now I'll get bored, if I only had to repeat my previous works. I wanted to take a different direction, try to communicate with a completely new approach. If I were only interested in the economic success, I might launch some flankers named "L'Air du Desert Marocain Sport" or "Lonely Star Eau fraiche", but I prefer exploring new paths, exposing myself to criticism if it's the case". 

Today, Andy is still young (at least he looks like: Andy, you don't own an old painting aging for you, do you?) but his training has come to maturity and this led him to take a step further, with the Tableau Fragrances line.
The project Tableau Fragrances was born in EvelynAvenue a U.S. website, a sort of virtual neighbourhood where artists and readers from different backgrounds share designs, visions, projects. They speak of sculpture, movies, crafts, and many other interesting things. The filmmaker Brian Pera, an EvelynAvenue goer, was composing a series of short movies titled "Women's Pictures", each focused on a woman's figure. The movies tell these women at a particular point in their lives, delineating their characters and personal way of dealing with life. Each of these women at some point speaks of a fragrance, one she has loved, wore, hated or dreamt of. In fact, scent is the central element of all movies in the series, as if it were the olfactory incarnation of the characters' personality. And here Andy comes in: with the help of the filmmaker he built the scent of each of them. The character in the first movie, called Miriam, is an elegant woman, gentle and sophisticated, though direct in voicing her feelings. And in fact, "Miriam", the first fragrance in the Fragrances Tableau line -launched in Italy in this period- is just similar (with every perfume you'll get the Video Dvd). It's a classic aldehydic floral, all brightness, refinement and gentleness, without "soapy notes". You feel Andy studied Liu and Vega (Guerlain), N. 22 on (Chanel), White Linen (E . Lauder) but he went further:  unlike all these great classics (which I love unconditionally), Miriam shows an extremely modern allure, a sophistication as soothing as a velvety caress. 
I asked him what his source of inspiration was "The inspiration for all the movies in the "Women's Pictures" series is the woman of the movies of the '30s and '40s, a charismatic heroin of espionage or a passionate great actress; archetypal women we cannot forget even now, almost a century later. For us it was crucial the scents of the series brought in this classical structure
I love Miriam: maybe I have a soft spot for aldehydic florals, but this is both timeless as a classic yet perfectly contemporary, delicate and very present, refined but "easy" and I like how it melts on the skin, becoming pure golden light.
With this step in a different direction, Andy is proving that he's not afraid of showing his cretivity has no boundaries of style, and as he explores, his talent finds new ways to express. At this point the idea of discovering the other Tableau fragrances thrills me a lot, and I know that I will be visiting Profumo Via Brera, as soon as possible.

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