In the beginning, there was "L'Air du Desert Marocain", the mesmerizing fragrance that put him on the map of artistic perfumery. Then a young perfumer, Andy was still in training and the use of extraordinary materials, assembled in a new and daring way, surdosed, distorted, driven to their limit had led to the creation of perfumes such as "Le Maroc pour elle", “Vetiver Dance”, “Lonestar Memories”, “Une Rose Chyprèe”, “Carillon pour un Ange”. Perfumes with intense personalities, bold, uncompromising, carrying an exciting view on fragrance.
Then Andy took an unexpected turn: he
experimented with synthesis, creating three fragrances for the
"Pentachords" series: “Verdant”, “Auburn” and
“White”, each composed of 5 synthetic molecules.
thrilled someone and disappointed others, who felt somehow "betrayed"
by this choice, not recognizing the composer they had loved. The fact is Pentachords differ much from previous creations: they're completely abstract perfumes, and don't feature those precious natural raw materials that Andy knows how to "play" very well.
months ago Andy told me "In these past years I grew a lot, and
now I'll get bored, if I only had to repeat my previous
works. I wanted to take a different direction, try to communicate
with a completely new approach. If I were only interested in the
economic success, I might launch some flankers named "L'Air du
Desert Marocain Sport" or "Lonely Star Eau fraiche",
but I prefer exploring new paths, exposing myself to criticism if it's the case".
Today, Andy is still young (at least he looks like: Andy, you don't own
an old painting aging for you, do you?) but his training has
come to maturity and this led him to take a step further, with the
Tableau Fragrances line.
The project Tableau Fragrances was born in
EvelynAvenue a U.S. website, a sort of virtual neighbourhood where
artists and readers from different backgrounds share designs,
visions, projects. They speak of sculpture, movies, crafts, and many
other interesting things. The filmmaker Brian Pera, an EvelynAvenue
goer, was composing a series of short movies titled "Women's
Pictures", each focused on a woman's figure. The movies tell
these women at a particular point in their lives, delineating their
characters and personal way of dealing with life. Each of these women
at some point speaks of a fragrance, one she has loved, wore, hated
or dreamt of. In fact, scent is the central element of all movies in
the series, as if it were the olfactory incarnation of the characters' personality. And here Andy comes in: with the
help of the filmmaker he built the scent of each of them. The
character in the first movie, called Miriam, is an elegant woman,
gentle and sophisticated, though direct in voicing her feelings. And
in fact, "Miriam", the first fragrance in the Fragrances
Tableau line -launched in Italy in this period- is just similar (with
every perfume you'll get the Video Dvd). It's a classic aldehydic
floral, all brightness, refinement and gentleness, without "soapy notes". You feel Andy studied Liu and Vega
(Guerlain), N. 22 on (Chanel), White Linen (E . Lauder) but he went further: unlike all these great classics (which I love unconditionally), Miriam shows an extremely modern allure, a sophistication as soothing as a velvety
I asked him what his source of inspiration was "The
inspiration for all the movies in the "Women's Pictures"
series is the woman of the movies of the '30s and '40s, a charismatic
heroin of espionage or a passionate great actress; archetypal women
we cannot forget even now, almost a century later. For us it was
crucial the scents of the series brought in this classical
I love Miriam: maybe I have a soft spot for aldehydic
florals, but this is both timeless as a classic yet perfectly
contemporary, delicate and very present, refined but "easy"
and I like how it melts on the skin, becoming pure golden light.
With this step in a different direction,
Andy is proving that he's not afraid of showing his cretivity has no
boundaries of style, and as he explores, his talent finds new ways to
express. At this point the idea of discovering the other Tableau
fragrances thrills me a lot, and I know that I will be visiting
Profumo Via Brera, as soon as possible.