15 aprile 2013

Osmotheque: focus on Tuberose (2/2)

(This post originates here)
Tuberose is all but an accomodating note: it is difficult to pair it with something that doesn't share any of its aspects! For example, hedione or bergamot are unsuitable because tuberose has no citrus accents nor crystalline light... Animal or woody notes would be tricky and should be dosed carefully not to cover up the floral facet. Tuberose certainly prefers the company of green or fruity notes and, above all, notes from other white flowers. In these areas much has already been said, and to avoid the "deja-smelled" effect, today's perfumers tend to rely on synthetic molecules such as benzyl salicylate which accentuates the "exotic" facet or "salty" notes highlighting the methyl side tuberoses share with other white flowers.
Other scents where tuberose plays the starring role:
Tuberose (Richard Fraysse for Caron, 2003) is a confortable tuberose, located halfway between the velvety feel of Fracas and the chic extravagance of Tubereuse Criminelle
Carnal Flower (D. Ropion for Frederic Malle, 2005) is a surdosed tuberose with narcotic effect, whose flesh and sensuality are taken to the extreme.
Giorgio Beverly Hills (Francis Camail, 1980) an head-spinning overload of tuberose and white flower. It reminds Chloe, that F. Camail composed a few years earlier for Lagerfeld, but compared to Chloe, Giorgio is closer to a woody accord.
Ysatis (Dominique Ropion for Givenchy, 1984) a floral oriental seductively poudree and very "adult" where tuberose stands on a base of vanilla and woods.
Poison (Eduard Fléchier for Dior, 1985), the first Dior perfume not bearing the couturier's name. A monolithic perfume with a blueberry specialty on top, and a powerful note of Aurantiol (neroli, honeyed white flowers).
Panthère (Alberto Morillas for Cartier, 1987). Another child of the 80s. Little tuberose and more patchouli/sandalwood, which restrain her exuberance.
Mahora (Guerlain, 2000). This little gem, more than a tuberose scent is a work around ylang, which Guerlain has a plantation in Mayotte. Despite one of the best perfume advertising ever (you can see it here), the perfume didn't sell well; to save the brand's credibility Guerlain had it removed from the shops. After a few years it was renamed Mayotte and it was put on sale again, but only in the Guerlain boutique in Paris. Which is a shame because this scent is more interesting than what Guerlain is currently producing and selling to the gallon without any scruples regarding the brand's credibility (it is my opinion and not Emmanuelle's). Tuberose here is light and trated with a gentle hand, with ylang, coconut and sandalwood making it a smiling perfume, with a sobriety and a chic resembling the best Dior perfumes of the '50s: naive, lighthearted and springlike as Dior Dior or Diorissimo, feminine and easy-going as Miss Dior (again, my opinion...) 
Number One (Patricia de Nicolai, 1989)is the first perfume in the "Parfums De Nicolai" line, Patricia was assigned the prestigious first prize at the SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs) after releasing this. It was her debut scent! Notes of honeysuckle, jasmine, iris surround tuberose, giving it a nice holiday-like, sunny aura.
Given the number of tuberose-based scents that were launched in the 80s, tuberose is the best scent representative of that era: sound, exuberant, a little arrogant, she doesn't go unnoticed. The result is that even today no one dares surdose a tuberose note , not to connote a scent as "too much 80s".
Instead, use this flower with a light hand and it will release a truly unique velvety roundness. New and exciting tuberose scents are coming out only in artistic perfumery: Nuit de Tubereuse by Duchaufour for L'Artisan Parfumeur, Mona di Orio's Tuberose and the three tuberose offerings in Histoires de Parfums line are a step forward in terms of originality and contemporary taste. Evidently, tuberose has still much to say!

ps
Emmanuelle is a good speaker, she's able to shower the audience with knowledge, enthusiasm and a rare passion. Thank you Emmanuelle and thank you Osmothèque for sharing the magic of this flower with us!

Pic from this site 

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