23 maggio 2013

Musk and new Musk Extreme (Alyssa Ashley) 1/2

Sometimes I've heard people say that only spending at least 100 euros you can buy a perfume
- Well-built and original
- Harmonious
- Exciting
- With a sillage
- Long-living on skin.
Uhm.
A part that I'm not sure 100 euros will always enable you to purchase something with even one of the above described features, I found some great scents -both industrial and artistic- with a fantastic price per quality ratio. But sometimes they're so advertised and highlighted... as to be almost invisible!
Alyssa Ashley's Musk from for example, is one of these. Just because it's sold in GDO does not mean it's a trivial or poor scent. Indeed, in this case the lineage is among the noblest and the scent is, for musk lovers, is a must-sniff. But in order to appreciate it you have to broaden horizons a bit, realizing that name, bottle and packaging may have no importance at all -as far as I'm concerned they may even be absent- and the only thing that really matters is the scent itself, how it's built and how you feel when you wear it, if you keep sniffing your wrists, if you smile and your everyday tasks get smoother.
Built on a simple accord of a few notes sewn tightly, Musk is intriguing and delicate at the same time, it smells of mother's milk and bare skin under sheets. It conveys both a warm/animal feeling and a clean, crisp one, in a pleasant play around carnality/innocence that had made it a hit in many countries. Moreover, it has an extreme longevity (hours on skin, days on clothing) and a perfect sillage: neither too shy nor intrusive. Today Musk is no longer considered modern only because it's been around for thirty years, but when it launched yes, it felt quite original and "modern".
I remember I used to wear it as a kid, it seemed the most seductive scent I could imagine! 
A few years ago I bought and edp and then an edt, but neither of them took me back in time: both were slightly less sensual then the one I remembered. I guess the mix of musks in the original formula did't comply with IFRA's regulations and therefore a suitable replacement was needed. I decided to let it go.
But then in a shop I saw the tiny 15ml vial in oil and decided to give it a try: the 12 euro I spent didn't bankrupted me, and made me rediscover an old love. I found that people who used to wear this perfume twenty-five years ago, as me, today certainly prefer the oil version because it's quite similar as it used to be then.
But only when I tried the newest "Extreme" version in oil I had the epiphany: here it is, finally! The Musk Extreme only slightly differs from Musk (both in oil) and mostly in the topnotes: where Extreme is warmer, creamy, velvety, Musk is brighter, with certainly more aldehydes and a fresh flowers accord (lily of the valley and rose?). Both possess the happy characteristic of blending well with the skin on which they sit, and this is due mainly to their vector being oil. In fact, in alcohol-based perfumes alcohol evaporation leaves essential oils and molecules "naked" on the skin, to heat up and evaporate in their own, slower time; oil instead is a vector that incorporates the other oils and evaporates together with them, allowing a slower and more harmonious development, especially with particularly heavy notes as musks. And although it tends to "close" fragrances a little, when it comes to musks this is not a minus: it would be if we were talking about citrus fruits or flowers, whose characteristics of freshness, exuberance and directness are generally welcomed and enhanced, while their usage in oil could "extinguish" a little bit. (follows)

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