11 gennaio 2014

Interview with Maria Grazia Fornasier (2/2)

(This interview originates here)

Where do you acquire the information you provide your students and, and above all, the raw materials in the Olfactorium®?
First, I'll tell you one thing: Olfactorium is not a common word, but the name -registered by Cinquième Sens- for the container that stores 48 among raw materials and perfumes discussed during the course
The design of the object is the property of CS, and it may be purchased separately for those who want to train at home or as a professional tool. The raw materials we have (731 essential oils, absolutes and molecules) we put in the Olfactorium according to the needs of the course, were purchased from all manufacturers, not only because they trust me, but also because they realized that my teaching spreads culture, and this is also good for them.
As for the rest... my tasks in the industry have allowed me to build up a wealth of technical knowledge. As SFP members (Societé Francaise des Parfumeurs) we receive information and updates that are usually only available to professionals.

I know, from my conversations with many young Italian composers and brand owners that many of them have participated to your trainings, or taken advantage of your professionality in other ways. My feeling is that you are offering a huge contribution to today's and tomorrow's Italian perfumery!
I hope you're right, over the years we have met a lot of smart people with good ideas and good projects, it was a pleasure to accompany them for a while. The younger generation should not be afraid of investing in their future, indeed, there is no better time to do it!

How do you see the increasing presence of websites, forums and blogs that discuss and review perfume on the web?
I love them! The interest around perfume can only benefit both producers and the public. I would like, however, there were greater skills, together with the ability to evaluate the source infos come from, sometimes I read so much nonsense! Sharing passions is fantastic, but if you write about perfumes or airplanes (no difference) you need to make sure what you write for your readers is correct, isn't it? So you study, trying to reach an appropriate level of knowledge, and then write. Otherwise, wrong information bounces from one site to another and in a moment you find it everywhere on the web. Afterwards, it takes an enormous effort to eradicate it!

And you? Do you study and... test?
I do!!! I after 40 years I still doubt everything! I feel the constant need to confront, study...I don't know everything, I have a decent training but sometimes I do stupid things too!

What gives you satisfaction in your work?
When I was graduating I never thought I would teach! It was the only profession that never, ever would come to my mind! But 40 years later, it gives me joy to be in the classroom and accompany people in their learning process, seeing them grow, expand their ability to perceive the magic of smells... I find this rewarding!

What is the favorite perfume of a lady who lives every day immersed in perfumes?
Amazone (Hermes) -and here comes a big smile of joy- is the scent that takes me back in time. Besides, I love the chypres and wear them all: Aromatics Elixir, Narciso Rodriguez, Bottega Veneta, and in the most romantic days Ombre Rose and Jardin de Bagatelle. I'm not a tuberose girl, but here it's watery and transparent, I love it.

Your preferred raw material?
When rose is central in a fragrance, I melt. I love it in all its forms, I have a mini collection of rose-themed  fragrances: Rose Essentielle by Bulgari, MCGentile's Cinabre, Damarose by Xerjoff, Chloe, and Ombre Rose!

All of us perfume aficionados have a "lost" gem that took our hearts years ago and for one reason or another - alas - is no longer produced. Do you have one ?
Unfortunately yes: a chypre with a blue  hyacinth note, "La Nuit" by Paco Rabanne. A marvel of sensuality but... no longer in production.

In addition to Maria Grazia Fornasier, founder, Mouillettes&Co. also enjoys Elena Scotti's secretarial collaboration, and  in 2014 Emanuela Rupi is going to join Maria Grazia and share honors and responsibilities: Emanuela started her career in the lab and continued with marketing and evaluation in different perfume houses (Creations Aromatiques and Firmenich) and with project management. In recent years she has worked in the artisanal perfumery field, adding another element to her experience. Moreover, for some time the team will be joined by Elisa Sarnari that after a degree in chemistry and the training path at Cinquieme Sens in Paris has joined the team in Castelletto Ticino. In short, the skills fielded by Mouillettes &Co are expanding to offer outstanding training experiences... I wish you good training in this 2014!

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