22 marzo 2014

Esxence 2014 report 2: Naomi Goodsir's Or du Serail


After Bois d'Ascèse and Cuir Velours, Naomi Goodsir (site) presented her third fragrance: Or du Serail. I've worn it yesterday with great pleasure, I recognized the same search for "texture" that characterizes her first two. Her vision of what a scent is, evidently includes strong tactile impact, and Or du Serail makes no difference: it reminded me a of silken velvet in a golden shade.
Tobacco and sage (which gives hints of leather /tobacco ), mate (dry, aromatic, slightly tobacco), dried fruits (such as dates) and an amber accord make it a contemporary fragrance, sultry, smiling, rich, liqueur-y,  almost sticky-ripe, yet not "too much". A gourmand scent but of an adult kind, on the edge of sophistication. The perfume was composed by Bertrand Duchaufour and when I heard this I was surprised because, in all its glory , does not bear  Bertrand usual "hand" or signature. Naomi told me that Bertrand has endeavored a great deal to understand and realize exactly the idea that she had in mind -Naomi is a particularly tough evaluator, she was told. In my opinion some of the best fragrances that BD has composed lately are those made for Aedes de Venustas, Neela Vermeire and Naomi Goodsir; they are so different that what we perceive is mainly the quality of the idea, rather than the hand of the composer. Obviously, when there's someone behind the project with a clear vision and a willingness to take some risks, and when he/she decides to work with an extraordinary talent like BD's, any creative goal can be easily achieved. Bravo Naomi!
(Thanks to Fragrantica for the pic)

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