22 marzo 2014

Esxence 2014 report 3: Orto Parisi

And finally, I could explore Alessandro Gualtieri's new line Orto Parisi (website): Stercus, Brutus, Boccanera, Viride and Bergamask. I have so much to tell you and in fact, after exploring the scents calmly in the next weeks, I'll write a long post. For now I'm just giving you some info and suggest, if you have the opportunity, to pick them all to sniff. Because they are well made, sensual, with a taste for harmony and roundness typical of great classic perfumery, and then feature full-bodied and engaging notes (animal notes, resins and woods of both natural and synthetic origin). Smelling them, you may understand how Alessandro is different from a few years ago when his talent  highlighted also his provocativeness. Today the provocativeness is still there - obviously he's fun with it- but it's flanked by maturity, a sense of self-confidence and satisfaction in paying homage to his roots, to a much loved grandfather (Vincenzo Parisi, and the Orto -that means garden- was his) and his simple farmer's life. In short, I recognized a "maturity" that has moved me something inside.
The fragrances are just beautiful and testify to a life of smells, feelings and gestures that were considered normal until a few years ago, and are almost unknown to us: Stercus (manure) resembles the warm and reassuring smell of stables housing horses and cows and is certainly one of those smells that those who had the fortune to experience it as children will carries in their heart forever. Viride smells of green and dry fields during the summer  (I need to smell them better because I'm afraid to mess around with names and notes). Obviously they are all wearable fragrances, because Alessandro's aesthetic vision may be provocative and original, but he never forgets a fundamental assumption: that fragrances should, above all, smell good. And these all do.
Side note, I really like the simple bottles with soft rounds, lacking any unnecessary frivolities; I think they fully reflect both their content, the fundamental inspiration behind them, and the new Alessandro.

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