29 luglio 2014

La Fille de Berlin (Lutens/Sheldrake for Serge Lutens, 2013)

A couple of days ago I was exploring the Serge Lutens/Shiseido booth at a local Department Store, looking curiously at the two launches I hadn't smelled yet: "Laine de Verre" and "La Fille de Berlin".
In fact I was also hoping to meet Fabrizia, the lady who runs the booth, because it isn't easy to find a sales assistant who is a perfect combo of expertise and passion, able to introduce you to the brand's launches without being exaggerate or pushy... so I took the opportunity to chat with her a little bit.

As we talked, she sprayed "La Fille de Berlin"on my wrist  and since I enjoyed the idea of ​​seeing this unusually fire-red liquid on skin, too transparent to be blood, bringing joy instead of pain, I asked for a second spray on the other wrist. 
And then another one on the arm, please. 
The bright color and consistency intrigued me a lot, and so I kept spraying without restraint.
As the chat was going on my brain was recording "Beautiful perfume. And expensive, too!"

I haven't written about Serge Lutens since long ago, and I like picking up the thread with La Fille de Berlin, one of the most striking rose fragrances I smelled this year: rich, sophisticated, elegant, a kind of olfactive choreography transporting you in a distant land and time.
The precious Turkish rose appears immediately, fire-red, bright, smooth, adult, surrounded by a few selected raw materials such as spices (a bubbly pink pepper and a mysterious black pepper), musks, woods... 
This is one of those special fragrances in which raw materials serve the story, so the star is not the rose, but the Fille herself, the Berlin Girl of the name (Marlene Dietrich, may be?).
You distinctly perceive her without anyone ever introducing you: her cruel, ice-cold beauty crosses the room on 12 cm red stilettos, mesmerizing men and women alike; her husky, sensual voice shows those dark undertones that disturb you while attract you; her haughty look commands you to get closer only to have the pleasure of rejecting you a moment later... 
Despite the rètro inspiration is perfectly clear, this fragrance is absolutely modern, wearable and enjoyable today by women and men particularly fond of elegance. 
What makes it special, though, like many other Lutens' fragrances, is its ability to make you travel. You spray and you find yourself in another time, in another place... In this case, you're in a black and white spy movie, clinging to a dangerous Russian guy with whom you are going to do wonderful, unspeakable things you'll regret for the rest of your life.

The fragrance lasts three hours on skin (the bright color suggests not to spray on clothes), a decent longevity, but Lutens can do even better, and this beautiful rose deserves it fully.

If you get the chance, spray it on a man's skin; it's pure bliss!

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