26 marzo 2016

Rania J. fragrances: Rose Ishtar, Oud Assam, Jasmin Kama, Ambre Loup, Lavande 44, Tobacco Habanero

 A brand that I got to know in Florence during Pitti Fragranze was Rania J. (website here)
Rania Jouaneh namely, is both the founder of the brand and the composer beyond the fragrances. Rania, raised in Paris, has retained a taste for oriental perfumes and this is clearly reflected in her fragrances: rose, jasmine, spices and woods are treated like precious gems in a sumptuous, deep, intense, way, squeezing the juice to the last drop. 
The fragrances in fact, are born to pay homage to the note referred to in the name: Rose Ishtar, Oud Assam, Jasmin Kama, Ambre Loup, Lavande 44, Tobacco Habanero.
The scents are available in 50ml bottles of edp -eau de parfum- and possess all the characteristics that I associate with successful perfume: well estabilished on the skin, long living, with some degree of complexity and originality.  In short, they are beautifully crafted perfumes, without unnecessary frills around. Even the bottle has a nice shape and a pleasant texture to hold.

Her Oud Assam is one of the best oud fragrances I have found: oud is really there, showing all its bewildering complexity, made of dirty, fecal, caramelized, earthly and burnished notes, in short able to pass through the whole range of possibilities that oud can offer. This warm, prancing note was complemented with shady black pepper, cedarwood and vetiver, which add a slightly smoky touch to the perfume. Very nice, sophisticated and ground, I found it great on men's skin (my husband emptied the sample and now I must order it online to give to him as a present).

Rose Ishtar instead is a bright, fresh and unusually woody rose note that I liked a lot because out of the ultra-feminine rose clichè.

But my favorite is Ambre Loup: finally a complex, multifaceted amber, not completely dominated by cistus labdanum -a note that I love, but can not "make the perfume" all by itself!
Here the choice fell on a balsamic, rather unusual and expensive accord (Peru balsam/guaiac wood) paired with labdanum, vanilla absolute, oud and cedarwood. The result is an amber scent rich and sumptuous, warm, sweet, caressing, velvety, with a hint of feline sensuality that I really loved.

Also Lavande 44 is quite unusual, due to dry and bitter notes of bergamot and petit grain, played beside warm and shady oud, vetiver and cedarwood; the result is unusually sophisticated and complex, dry, bright and incredibly modern. Anyone who sees lavender as an "outdated" note should try this for a moment and re-think about it.

The other fragrances of the line are the Jasmin Kama and Tobacco Habanero, which I found interesting and well-made especially for the beauty of the raw materials (jasmine, above all).

The cost is around 90 € for 50ml edp, then a good value. 

If you want to explore this brand - and you should, indeed- you may order the sample set of six scents for 10euros (click here).

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