2 maggio 2016

Maria Candida Gentile: three roses (Cinabre)

Italian perfumer Maria Candida Gentile (website, in Italian, here) has so far created three rose scents that smell very different from each other, thus witnessing not only her unquestionable love for the Queen of flowers, but also her great creativity: it's not easy to concoct three rose scents, all three interesting, pleasant to wear and original!
I am absolutely sure MCG is one of the best composers around. Were she French, and equipped with a more efficient marketing department, nowadays she would work for Guerlain in the place of that useless Sylvaine Delacourte, and Guerlain will take back their place in perfumery.

Cinabre is the first of the three since it was composed by MCG a few years ago and is inspired by cinnabar, the bright red color extracted from a plant (Dracena) highly sought after by alchemists; I think this is the right name for a perfume characterized by a strong impact and an almost "touchable" roundness. The Rosa Splendens that Maria Candida used in this fragrance -which I had never heard of before- conveys a strong scent of myrrh, which here is fed by warm, spicy and powdery notes (black and pink pepper). Splendens is also joined by the freshness of davana and the opulence of a Moroccan rose, which add three-dimensionality. Benjoin, vanilla and opoponax (sweet myrrh of Somalia) sew a scent dominated by warm notes, voluptuous, and as dusty as talcum powder. Rose walks the feminine path here (although I believe men could easily give it a try) and really stars the composition: a bold, sumptuously smooth red rose with fleshy petals, satisfactorily impactful and long lasting. 

The other two fragrances (Elephant & Roses and Rrose Selavy) follow in the next post.

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