2 giugno 2009

Le Labo: Labdanum18 and Oud27


Wearing Labdanum18 one can understand that it's precisely here all amber fragrances with oriental notes, comes from. "Oriental" stands for opulence and mystery. Labdanum is a note I adore for its intense personality and sweet but not sugary body, capable of awakening the senses. Soft, caressing like a velvet glove, provides a depth and roundness that can make any fragrance sumptuously sexy. The first time I sprayed it, I immediately thought "Shalimar!" and in fact labdanum is one of the characterizing components of this oriental masteripece of the last century. Learning the great classics helps to discover the beauty and quality in today offerings, this is why I care so much about perfumes of the past. Labdanum here is associated with a hint of civet (I believe zibettone) which makes it even more animal, warm and intense. A beautiful exploration of the labdanum theme, but after a couple of days I dropped it because it has a thick sweetness I found almost excessive. Perhaps heat is not allied with this scent-and these days we have 30°- but this autumn it will work magic in helping me find confortable and sunny.

I saved Oud27 for last because I don't know if I am able to fully describe it. It's different from Montale's ouds, from M7 (YSL) my husband wears, it reminds me of an oud that Lady in Black made me test some time ago, part of a precious coffret of ouds from different countries of the Far East, which she had paid for (30 ml in total) the equivalent of a week end in London. My memory of that oud is the closest thing to this by Le Labo. Just after spraying and for the following 10 minutes it's all sharp peaks and syrupy valleys. Sharp as timber still young and resinous (cedar, pepper, patchouli), and syrupy as honey, horse dung and earth (ie, oud, saffron guaiac wood, and something else). It may seem a Beast, and in fact the scent isn't revealed immediately, it takes patience to get to the Beauty, but it's worth it. Because after 10 minutes valleys rise and peaks descend and the whole composition starts a gently undulating movement, which expresses a unique sophistication. Something that I'd never smelled before and that really excited me a lot. It melts on the skin and makes it smell terrific. I don't know how to explain it better, but the scent itself disappears, and the feeling is that the skin smells in an animal, woody, warm, powerfully sensual way, both ancient and modern. Do you understand what this fragrance did to me? No? Ok, I'll add that it's addictive. A few hours after, when your skin has eaten it all out, you want more. And then more. And when you're not wearing it, you think about it. For me this is one of the most amazing, exciting fragrances in recent years, a real discovery. Thanks to my friend Adjiumi, who welcomed me into the magical world of Le Labo!
Picture: "La dama con l'Ermellino" - Leonardo

2 commenti:

Sabricat Glamour ha detto...

Devo proprio complimentarmi per le suggestive recensioni con le quali ci allieti. Ci mostri in continuazione nuovi mondi della profumeria senza farci prendere respiro.
Oramai anche andare sul sito della marca trovo sia una perdita di tempo e le commesse dei negozi rimangono spesso in difficoltà di fronte alle mie richieste.
E oggi questa novità Le Labo... c'è qualcuno che sa dirmi dove trovarlo a Roma, o devo andare per forza (magari!!!) a Parigi? Ho proprio voglia di farmi una "orizzontale" di Oud.
Mi spiego meglio: gli amanti del vino spesso partecipano a degustazioni che chiamano orizzontali (stessa annata cantine diverse) o verticali (stessa cantina annate diverse), io non sono un'esperta quindi corregetemi se sbaglio.
Secondo me si potrebbe fare la stessa cosa con i profumi anzi B&B già lo fa.
Sabricat

Bergamotto e Benzoino ha detto...

Sabri il tuo commento è capitato nel post inglese e quindi mi sa che non lo hanno visto. Hai voglia di ripostare la tua domanda su Roma anche dall'altra parte (sorry ma io non lo posso fare)?
E comunque, le Sniffathone servono porprio a questo. Annusare tutte le fragranze di un marchio, con tutto il tempo necessario, una dopo l'altra inziando dalla meno potente, con spiegazioni utilissime d aparte del naso creatore o del distributore.
Sì, aiuta tantissimo a capire, e in negozio in genere non te lo lasciano fare (per questo, appena posso, organizzo!).