19 settembre 2009

Sniffa-Pitti part 4 (the last)

(This post originates here)
Then we moved to the stand of Nobile1942, where Stefania introduced Nobile1942 fragrance line and the novelty of Frapin, L'Humaniste that they import in Italy. Here, this fragrance has left everyone a bit confused, I heard some disappointed comments... It doesn’t seem a “real” Frapin, it lacks the full-bodied liquorous quality which instead is found in the others. In Frapin fragrances flowers are powerful, spices are round, perfumes have a body, an elegance that I didn’t find here. L'Humaniste goes in a completely opposite direction of cold and metallic, a scent of glass and steel, I have to resmell it because I was completely disoriented. Stefania then showed Casta Diva and Patchouli Nobile 1942 (I already wrote about it here) and as I expected they were pleasant to many participants; at this point she asked us for a little help. As she told me previously, they arrived near the end of the composition of a new amber perfume, but both they and the composer felt not fully satisfied with the two directions explored. They were searching for a pickup, a reflection, because they could not identify what was wrong. She asked me whether to try to engage the group, and I thought it would be fantastic, because we had the chance to smell a fragrance when it’s still being worked on, and we could also understand a little better how it’s like working with a brief. The first “essai” showed a very interesting fresh start and an ambery base very unusual, but unfortunately the heart "didn’t sing", while the second was very pleasant, smooth but a little too sweet and not so original. The group provided a range of stimuli and thoughts, that Stefania and the composer (Marie Duchene) surely will add to their own, in order to go ahead and get to the result. I look forward to smelling the final version!
At about 4 o’clock, yet incredibly full of energy, we went to see Pier Carlo, owner of “Profumi delle Cinque Terre” (I already wrote about it here) brand who introduced and explained to all the fragrances "Agave", "Respiro di Risacca" Fiordaliso di Portovenere" and "Tentazione di Fico”. Pier Carlo shared much time, mouillettes and samples with participants, answering five thousand questions; I wish to thank him for his tireless enthusiasm and eloquence, which was worth more than a fan.

On those occasions everyone chooses to follow the whole program I have prepared, or quit the band here and there to concentrate on the discover of novelties or of what fascinates him/her (in one day is absolutely impossible to smell everything, I even didn’t in three...). This is one thing I really like, because this way stimuli come from different directions, and this experience of sharing enriches everyone. The central idea is this: collect stimuli to smell and to think, understand differences between different brands and composers, getting a little deeper one brand/composer at a time. Just so you get to know, time after time, who is creating or striving to create real art, who is an honest person trying to create interesting scents with a niche distribution, who is trying to keep up a tradition of generations moving it forward in the best way, and who instead in artistic or niche perfumery envisions only an economic boost to his/her product, since niche in this moment is attractive. Learning the differences allows you not to buy what the "trendy" group or the shop assistant likes, but what you like, what you seriously enjoy. Labelled or unlabelled, famous names or not.
At 5.30 we had to say goodbye. Without any sadness, because we’ll have chance to meet again! I wish to thank all the participants who made my day, whoever came up from the town, from far or from veeery far away: it was wonderful to spend time with you, listen to you, watch you excited for new discoveries, or disappointed when something smelled wrong (not to say anything about the fact that, even now that I'm writing, I see your smiling faces in front of me). So, see you soon!

Nobile 1942 website
Profumi delle Cinque Terre website

Nessun commento: