30 dicembre 2009
Knize Ten and Kiehl's Musk Oil: my Christmas gifts
The first is Kiehl's Musk Oil in the roll-on oil version. I'd smelled the original once a few years ago, and I wasn't particularly happy with it because of a slightly floral aftertaste that whipped off the animal side I like so much.
This version is still pretty tough, warm, pungent, very "sweet sweat" and quite dirty (Ambrettolide, a synthetic molecule very close to the natural musk smell).
On clothing it lasts a few hours but on skin, despite being an oil doesn't last so long. I have also been given a sample of Edt to test and the two compositions are significantly different: I definitely prefer the oil because half hour after spraying, the Edt loses the animal side becoming powdery in a somewhat sloppy and predictable, rather cheap way. I did some tests matching the oil with Lutens' MKK (another "animal" kind of musk, completely different from fresh and clean white musks, so successful with the commercial perfumery trade. Read review here) and the result of the mix is quite something. MKK's dirty side has been cleaned in the export version, but coupled with the "escatologic" side of Musk Oil, finally stands out again. I must say I 'm in love with this mix of raw musks, but for anyone else I think they could be "too much": too present, too animal, too overtly sexual. I recommend them only to those with a cool nervous system and perfect blood pressure.
The second gift was "Ten" by Knize (I wrote about it here). It was a while that I really wanted to have it, and even if it doesn't punch me in the stomach anymore as it used to, well, it's still a great scent. I received many compliments (and it doesn't happen so often), but more than that, it gives me real pleasure to wear it, makes me feel calm and focused. Soft leather, dry, woody and smoked notes (IBQ, but softened in a sweet way, I couldn't tell how), it suggests a Men's Club in London. Aged leather armchairs, the remains of pipe tobacco in the ashtray, two fingers of Scotch in the glasses. Superb.Image at Rose&Gray