10 gennaio 2010

Cuir de Russie (Ernest Beaux for Chanel, 1924)

...and then there are those works of human intellect that cause excitement and a sense of reverence for their greatness. They'll leave you amazed, shocked, speechless, unable to fully explain the experience.
Of Leonardo's Virgin of the Rocks we can tell the subject, the shady atmosphere, dark soft colors, but this is nothing compared to the experience of being there, right in front of the picture and looking at it, letting it enter through the eyes into your nervous system and from there into your blood, carrying you for a while in a higher sphere of being.
This is such a perfume.
If ther's some ibq is softened and the biting aspect of birch tar has been removed; there may be also jasmin and rose, iris, musks, sandalwood, coumarin, castoreum, ambergris and maybe a drop of liqueur.
It opens with a candied bergamot gliding gently into a soft leather soaked in brandy; the mix with flowers is rounded with notes of ripe apricot, and shares the sandalwood/benzoin/castoreum base of Bois des Iles, and the same atmosphere and warm twilight.
Serene, majestic, confident, authoritative without being authoritarian. Pure outworldly sophistication.
The parfum is definitely the best version (Edp doesn't exist), while Edt lacks a little persistence and it's better to spray it on clothing (inside of sleeves or a scarf), but the speech and voice are just the same.
It's a perfume absolutely worth knowing and if you haven't already done it, please go and give it a try. I got the Edt in Zurich a few years ago, and had long dreamed of the parfum but in the meantime Chanel had withdrawn all the parfums from the exclusive line and only the Edts (200ml) were available in Chanel's Boutiques.
I looked everywhere to find one but without success, then one year ago AnnaMaria found one on eBay and we managed to win the auction, to my great joy. Really, I'll never thank her enough.
Here, this is the history, with pyramid, notes, review and everything. But it's absolutely nothing, nothing, nothing compared to actually wearing the fragrance.

7 commenti:

Biagio ha detto...

Ma dove si compra "Cuir de Russie"!! Io sono un appassionato come te di profumi. Morirei senza. Soprattutto dei Chanels.
Il tuo sito è bellissimo. L'unica cosa che non mi piace, anche se peraltro so che viene usato comunemente, è l'espressione "indossare" il profumo.
Baci tesoro.
Biagio

Michael Mattison ha detto...

I am sooooo intrigued by this perfume. Is it really that good? It must be a masterpiece, and I'm wondering if it's something I might like to wear. Never tried it, but would like to soon. Even if I don't really care if a scent is a "masculine" or a "feminine": What is your opinion? Especially for fall or winter I tend to like suitably "weighty" scents. Does this one have weight and warmth?
Thanks for another fab post.
XO
Michael

Bergamotto e Benzoino ha detto...

Gentile Biagio, bentornato, grazie per i complimenti... perchè "indossare" non ti piace? Cuir de Russie lo trovi nelle Boutique Chanel. A Milano, Roma, Firenze so che ce ne sono sono, ma penso anche in altre città italiane. Se vai sul sito Chanel ti dà la lista. Fammi sapere se riesci a provarlo!

Dear Michael, from what I understand from your blog, I believe you would easily fall in love with Cuir de Russie. Masculine or feminine? Well, I couldn't say anything definite: it's woody, smoky, soft leather; just perfect both on men's and women's skins. It only depends on the individual and his/her degree of self evolution! ;-)
The edt version isn't so "weighty", compared to the parfum, but yes, I can say it's warm. But not "warm" in an oriental, ambery sense. If you succeed in trying it, I would love to hear your opinions about it!

Perfumes Bighouse ha detto...

Ciao tesoro!
Io sono apassionata per questo profumo.
Lui fa una deliziosa amalgama di fiori e cuoio. Molte finezza.Suo blog è adorabile! Bacci mille. Elisabeth

Bergamotto e Benzoino ha detto...

Elisabeth, thanks for coming back! Your blog is delicious too, you know, sometimes I come and read a little bit. Keep up the good job!

Anonimo ha detto...

Salve a tutti. Io adoro questo profumo e posseggo, fortunatamente, sia l' EDT da 200ml sia il PARFUM, uno degli ultimi prodotti, che ha ormai quasi 8 anni! Volevo sapere se qualcuno di voi ha delle notizie circa il rilancio dei PARFUM della linea les exlusivs.... baci

Bergamotto e Benzoino ha detto...

Ciao Anonimo, benvenut*!
Per ora non si sa niente, ma appena si dovesse sapere qualcosa in merito, lo scriveremmo a caratteri CUBITALI! Li stiamo aspettando tutti... :-)