11 marzo 2010

12th Journée du Parfum: in Provence it may be Spring but...

... it snowed so much that I don’t think anyone has noticed.
But I have wonderful news to tell you, because the 12th “Perfume Day” was organized like every year, and thus with the presence of Osmothéque (which is the main reason to be there). This year the exhibition focused on the 4 elements, so the stands were named "Air, Fire, Water and Earth," and the raw materials to smell   related to the olfactory display of 4 elements. The staff at the stands, technicians from essence companies, helped you with raw materials explaining extraction methods and their and use in perfumery.
Every year I take notes about raw materials which impress me (here 2008), this year I discovered  Helional (the dominant note of Rem and other marine/ozonic fragrances), with its seafoam, salty smell with a very slight flowery accent, the essential oil of Cade, smoky and aromatic, a specialty by Charabot named Viridine, a note of green water, moist and delicate, slightly floral and very natural, the essential oil of a plant that we in Italy call “marine fennel” and French "criste marine”, with a cold and metallic smell, with a hint of carrot.

Then at the Osmotéque stand I met, for the third year, Yves Tanguy, composer now retired but still driven by a unquenchable passion for scent, which made us smell several historical perfumes which deserve a separate post (here, 2008 report).
Monsieur Tanguy was then joined by Osmothéque President, Mrs. Patricia de Nicolai, composer and owner of her own fragrance line (exceptional, I have already spoken about her scents and I will again); Patricia has also held a conference in the plenary hall. She spoke about the importance of the work done by the Osmothéque: founded in 1990 by Jean Kerlèo, it stores and protects the olfactory heritage, nowadays endangered of being lost. New restrictions and bans in fragrances and raw materials, changes of fashion and tastes and the need to invest less in formulas, put a serious threat to the world of fragrances both new and, sbove all, vintage, and Osmothéque is the only institution that allows you to gain a historical perspective on perfumery.