14 maggio 2014

Djedi (1926, by Jacques Guerlain)

With this review I participate in the game "Settimana INCOM...commerciale" on Adjiumi forum!

This scent is named after a magician lived in ancient Egypt during Pharaoh Cheops' reign, his extraordinary abilities are told in a collection of ancient papyrus. In fact, when this fragrance was born, the aesthetics related to Ancient Egypt was extremely trendy: jewels and furniture of that period, in the most exquisite Art Dèco style, were often inspired by Egyptian models just brought to light by researchers/adventurers who went rummaging in the pyramids. Let's say that Guerlain have always been very good at capturing the fashions of the moment, turning the various actors of culture and society which people talked about, fantasized about and fell in love with, into perfumes.

Just as the ancient Egyptian magician whose name it bears, this perfume is capable of wonderful things. It departs dry and lofty, almost pungent, developing over time a compelling sensuality, characterized by animal notes calibrated to perfection, with which it caresses your skin gently. It's exactly the scent that Gary Oldman playing Dracula in Francis Ford Coppola's movie would wear.
In terms of composition, Djedi is an outstanding lesson in measure and personality. All notes are sewn so tight that besides the leathery notes, and a stunning vetiver, everything else is mixed in a dry, golden aura from which it is difficult to extrapolate the single notes. Yes, there's orris, but instead of the note itself you perceive a velvety brightness crossing the whole composition, you know there's a rose note just because you feel a vaguely erotic languor you don't know how to classify properly; oakmoss is there because you detect a salty austerity, such as knuckles tightly clutching the ivory knob of a walking stick, a pungent irony instead of artemisia... more than a perfume Djedi is an explosion of emotions.
It's so rich and beautiful that I can hardly describe it adequately. It reminded me of two other scents I reviewed with the same difficulty: Hermes' Doblis and Chanel's Cuir de Russie, two masterpieces of outstanding beauty revolving around a velvety, golden leather feeling; the former being more aromatic and pungent, the latter slightly darker and liqueur-y. For me, this trio sits at a level of perfection and charm that no one else has ever equaled (only Onda by Vero Kern was able to get near) .
Thanks Adjiumi, you gave me a lot of joy!

Unfortunately I finished the decant Cristian had sent me. And now I don't know how to do without this beauty. I just have to pray with all my strength the Gods of Perfume to let me find a whole bottle somewhere...

Pic: thanks to Perfumeshrine!

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