22 agosto 2017

OR Cashmere and OR White (C. Zarokian for Uer Mì, 2017)

That is: amber, on amber and about amber.
Amber was my first love, the one that introduced me to artistic perfume, through Etro's Ambra and Ambre by Reminiscence. So a fragrance like OR Cashmere by Uer Mì (website here) could only please me, it's everything amber should be: opulent, warm, faceted, dry, spicy, gourmand, absolutely exotic and, together, caressing and reassuring. More than a scent, a self-pampering act of pleasure. It opens with cardamom, cinnamon, thymus and crunchy hazelnut note, which make up a dry, pungent, spicy and outdoorsy top accord. Benjoin, cistus labdanum, grey amber, patchouli, sandalwood and vanilla build up an amber base of great elegance and balance. A mild hint of rum offers a pinch of livelyhood that makes it more modern. Elegant, perfectly executed, straight on the spot, it reminded me of a cat purring on naked skin. Sometimes, there is really no need for anything more, to feel good about ourselves.
OR White, too, is about amber, but goes in a completely different direction: I would call it a postmodern amber; and I liked it, if possible, even more.
The opening of citrus, cinnamon, coriander and fruity notes introduce a velvety, opaque, very modern warm sweetness with no sugariness, continuing in the heart with jasmine, woods and liquory resins. Orris and tonka bean add powderiness, while white musks play a subtle "rubber" side that runs along the whole fragrance and makes it more abstract than OR Cashmere, more immediately contemporary.
Both perfumes are perfect on both male and female skin; they're EDPs and last for a long time: OR White several hours and OR Cashmere even more.
In both cases, the composer is Cécile Zarokian, who is showing a remarkable versatility, worthy of composers with many more years of experience: she also authored the futuristic OR Ange, a cyberspace citrus that I invite you to try, because it's really amazing (I'm still looking for a better definition for it and I can not find it!)

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