OR Cashmere and OR White (C. Zarokian for Uer Mì, 2017)
Amber was my first love, the one that
introduced me to artistic perfume, through Etro's Ambra and Ambre by
Reminiscence. So a fragrance like OR Cashmere by Uer Mì (website here) could only
please me, it's everything amber should be: opulent, warm, faceted,
dry, spicy, gourmand, absolutely exotic and, together, caressing and
reassuring. More than a scent, a self-pampering act of pleasure. It
opens with cardamom, cinnamon, thymus and crunchy hazelnut note,
which make up a dry, pungent, spicy and outdoorsy top accord.
Benjoin, cistus labdanum, grey amber, patchouli, sandalwood and
vanilla build up an amber base of great elegance and balance. A mild
hint of rum offers a pinch of livelyhood that makes it more modern.
Elegant, perfectly executed, straight on the spot, it reminded me of
a cat purring on naked skin. Sometimes, there is really no need for
anything more, to feel good about ourselves.
OR White, too, is about amber, but goes
in a completely different direction: I would call it a postmodern
amber; and I liked it, if possible, even more.
The opening of citrus, cinnamon,
coriander and fruity notes introduce a velvety, opaque, very modern
warm sweetness with no sugariness, continuing in the heart with
jasmine, woods and liquory resins. Orris and tonka bean add
powderiness, while white musks play a subtle "rubber" side
that runs along the whole fragrance and makes it more abstract than
OR Cashmere, more immediately contemporary.
Both perfumes are perfect on both male
and female skin; they're EDPs and last for a long time: OR White
several hours and OR Cashmere even more.
In both cases, the composer is Cécile
Zarokian, who is showing a remarkable versatility, worthy of
composers with many more years of experience: she also authored the
futuristic OR Ange, a cyberspace citrus that I invite you to try,
because it's really amazing (I'm still looking for a better
definition for it and I can not find it!)
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