Chanel's new Parfumeur Maison (2/2)

-
This article originates in a previous post

 - My #1 candidate, Aurelien Guichard, has a rich portfolio of outstanding achievements both in niche and industrial fields; moreover, if the "experienced daddy" is a factor, his directs Givaudan's Perfumery school...
- Dominique Ropion. Well, imagine the two raw materials wizards Ropion and Sheldrake working together on Chanel's hypothetical next fragrance. Don't you get goosebumps? I do.
- Daniela Andrier, after having created best sellers for Gucci, Armani and CK, is now composing for Prada and is already used to the division "Mass Vs. Artistic", having crafted both the "Infusions" series and the outstanding Private line.
- Mathilde Laurent is very talented and with a refined taste, and being already a Parfumeur Maison for Cartier already knows the logics of this role. Moreover she's already terribly "Chanel" on her own.
- Ralph Schwieger, because his fragrances create parallel universes, and would've carried the scent of the "Chanel woman" to another level.
Evidently, like in any other fields, choices are based on politics, so if someone works for a certain brand (or has married the CEO of a certain company) then you can't consider him/her a good candidate...
In any case, Olivier Polge is a talented young composer with a rich portfolio (Dior Homme, Flowerbomb, EauMega and Spicebomb for Victor&Rolf, Armani Code, Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au Thé Vert and Mon Jasmin Noir, D&G The One for men, Cuir Beluga for Guerlain and many others for Ferragamo, Kenzo, Burberry, Cacharel, Lancome etc..), and looking at it closely I realized that he made the brands he worked for, earn some serious money. Probably this was his key characteristic: having earned buckets of money with fragrances -generally speaking- not particularly expensive.
To be successful on the market, Chanel must keep earning good revenues, and to do so they need to launch interesting and pleasant new scents that people will buy worldwide. Then, they can rely on Sheldrake's genius to add some expensive marvels to the Exclusif line, which will keep the brand into the artistic world we all love. With this strategy in mind, the choice of hiring Olivier is understandable, especially, since he will always have home (and for free) the best possible advice the company could hope for.

Probably, a few months before Jacques retires we will see the release of the next Chanel woman (the last, Chance, was in 2002) signed by father and son together, ferrying Chanel perfumes into a new era. I have no doubt it will be an era of well crafted fragranced, intriguing and easily sold; I wish with all my heart to Olivier (and me) that among these there will also be room for some precious ones.

Commenti

Posta un commento

Post popolari in questo blog

Arancia La Spugnatura (Francois Demachy per Acqua di Parma, 2023)

-
Immagine
La spugnatura è una delle più antiche tecniche di estrazione meccanica delle essenze agrumarie ; si tratta di un metodo manuale che richiede maestria e precisione, e sono pochi, ormai, gli artigiani che sono in grado di farlo.  Per spugnare (o “sfumare”) un agrume, si divide il frutto a metà . Attraverso un apposito attrezzo -una via di mezzo tra un coltello ed un cucchiaio, denominato “cavatore”- l'artigiano scodella via la polpa da ognuna delle due metà, lasciando integra la buccia . Questa viene poi piegata e pressata sopra una spugna naturale, che raccoglierà tutta l'essenza contenuta negli otricoli. Quando sarà completamente imbibita di essenza, la spugna verrà poi strizzata all'interno di un recipiente di coccio, e l'olio essenziale così ottenuto verrà lasciato decantare.  Ogni artigiano riesce a spugnare circa un quintale e mezzo di frutti al giorno, da cui si ricavano poco meno di 500 gr di essenza .  Se le essenze agrumarie si estraessero ancora in questo mo...
KEEP READING THIS POST*LEGGI TUTTO IL POST

Perris Montecarlo new release: Vetiver Java by Gian Luca Perris (2021)

-
Immagine
Vetiver is duality made plant.  The visible part is a bright green shrub whose long and thin leaves point towards the sky. The invisible part is a huge taproot embracing Mother Earth with such an exceptional vigor, difficult to overcome.  Evidently, vetiver's essence, too, expresses the same duality -and Java vetiver even better than any other type. On the one hand, you smell the freshness, the clarity of a cold winter day, the “push” upwards , to touch Heavens. On the other hand, there's the woody-green, dry, earthy, warm, smoked facet, endowed with the primitive and unconscious elegance of wild creatures. You smell the powerful roots, the effort of freeing them from Mother Earth's embrace, to clean them, to dry them, to work them... the work of man, his desire to take possession of such an intense and intimate embrace, to feel wrapped in it.  Capturing both these polarities is not easy; the composer must be able to listen deeply to the rew materials, and build a visce...
KEEP READING THIS POST*LEGGI TUTTO IL POST

Fleurs de Rocaille (Caron, 1934)

-
Immagine
Ho ricevuto questa preziosa fialetta di Fleurs de Rocaille, il vintage originale, da Anna Maria qualche tempo fa e la ringrazio molto per avermi fatto conoscere questo piccolo tesoro di Ernest Daltroff. Fleurs de Rocaille significa più o meno “fiori di pietraia” o “fiori di un giardino roccioso”, ed in effetti pur essendo essenzialmente un profumo fiorito esprime essenzialità, minimalismo raffinato. Sembra fatto oggi da qualche naso innamorato della luce e del cristallo. Sul sito di Caron viene definito un fiorito aldeidato, ma non immaginatevi il N.5 di Chanel o White Linen di E. Lauder. Ha una sua delicata dolcezza impressionista, evanescente, che mi ha ricordato l’Eau d’Hiver di Ellena. Non per le note scelte, ma per l’intenzione, per la sospensione nel tempo e nello spazio. Non ho trovato la piramide; sento del garofano (sapete quei garofanini piccoli, color porpora?), della violetta, forse una rosa un po’ speziata, e sicuramente del muschio, ma rarefatto, non potente. Se avete ...
KEEP READING THIS POST*LEGGI TUTTO IL POST