Chanel's new Parfumeur Maison (2/2)
This article originates in a previous post
- My #1 candidate, Aurelien Guichard, has a rich portfolio of outstanding achievements both in niche and industrial fields; moreover, if the "experienced daddy" is a factor, his directs Givaudan's Perfumery school...
- My #1 candidate, Aurelien Guichard, has a rich portfolio of outstanding achievements both in niche and industrial fields; moreover, if the "experienced daddy" is a factor, his directs Givaudan's Perfumery school...
- Dominique Ropion. Well, imagine the
two raw materials wizards Ropion and Sheldrake working together on
Chanel's hypothetical next fragrance. Don't you get goosebumps? I do.
- Daniela Andrier, after having created
best sellers for Gucci, Armani and CK, is now composing for Prada and is already used to the division "Mass Vs. Artistic", having crafted both the "Infusions"
series and the outstanding Private line.
- Mathilde Laurent is very talented and
with a refined taste, and being already a Parfumeur Maison for
Cartier already knows the logics of this role. Moreover she's already
terribly "Chanel" on her own.
- Ralph Schwieger, because his
fragrances create parallel universes, and would've carried the
scent of the "Chanel woman" to another level.
Evidently, like in any other fields, choices are based on politics, so if someone works for
a certain brand (or has married the CEO of a certain company) then
you can't consider him/her a good candidate...
In any case, Olivier Polge is a
talented young composer with a rich portfolio (Dior Homme,
Flowerbomb, EauMega and Spicebomb for Victor&Rolf, Armani Code,
Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au Thé Vert and Mon Jasmin Noir, D&G The
One for men, Cuir Beluga for Guerlain and many others for Ferragamo,
Kenzo, Burberry, Cacharel, Lancome etc..), and looking at it closely
I realized that he made the brands he worked for, earn some serious
money. Probably this was his key characteristic: having earned buckets of
money with fragrances -generally speaking- not particularly
expensive.
To be successful on the market, Chanel must
keep earning good revenues, and to do so they need to launch interesting and
pleasant new scents that people will buy worldwide. Then, they can rely on
Sheldrake's genius to add some expensive marvels to the
Exclusif line, which will keep the brand into the artistic world we all love.
With this strategy in mind, the choice of hiring Olivier is understandable, especially, since he
will always have home (and for free) the best possible advice the company
could hope for.
Probably, a few months before Jacques
retires we will see the release of the next Chanel woman (the last,
Chance, was in 2002) signed by father and son together, ferrying
Chanel perfumes into a new era. I have no doubt it will be an era of
well crafted fragranced, intriguing and easily sold; I wish with all
my heart to Olivier (and me) that among these there will also be room for some
precious ones.
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