9 marzo 2016

Tadzio (Michele Marin for HomoElegans, 2015)

Tadzio, the first scent in the HomoElegans line (website here) is the one that surprised me the most; it is inspired by the character of Tadzio in Mann's "Death in Venice".
The HE site says: "Panting, he rests on the sand, inebriated with salt and water.
A bite. Juicy fruit drips on hot skin. A shiver.
The fatal beauty that grasps itself. Expanded vibrations.
The sprouting of innocence, the explosion of revelation, exploration, excitement.
Gazes caress the skin and outline the forms.
The scents of the sea and shore engulf the nostrils.
A bright, transcendental image. Total abandonment is the ultimate goal.
Reflected footprints are the only memory."
Well, the fragrance is exactly this: the innocence of the child together with a primitive sensuality still unconscious, the salty breath of the sea panting on the boy's skin, the red forbidden fruit on his lips, etc. A crazy stuff, shameless, scandalous, yet intimate and innocent; almost too exciting to wear it. For me more than a perfume it is a Polaroid, something Lutens and Sheldrake could create in their heyday.
It's a weird hybrid ozonic/fruity/woody, something totally unclassifiable, one of a kind. Like a teenager of androgynous beauty, who has not yet decided what he wants to be and so he may be anything; yet the scent is not confusing or redundant, indeed raw materials are well-disciplined and serve the purpose they are used for. An opening dominated by bitter and green notes of citrus (lime, orange), ivy, helichrysum, immersed in sea water (ozonic musks, cucumber note); something juicy (blueberries and orange blossom); a base of patchouli and opoponax. But the pyramid does not suggest anything about the fragrance. 
I can only advise you to try it (men or women it doesn't make any difference), and once you have it on skin you will understand the meaning of "The result is greater than the sum of its parts".
Both Tadzio and "Quality of Flesh" are in high concentration, and stay powerful for at least three hours, then become unusual skin scents skin lasting for 3 hours more. On clothes, of course, a lot more. (follows)

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