Miu Miu l'Eau Bleue (Daniela Andrier for Prada, 2016)
Sometimes, the Perfume God gives you
unexpected gifts. Sometimes they have a strange, difficult character,
they seem to hold you wide... But since the first sniff you know
there's something inside. You can not understand what it is and go on
slamming your nose on it until you end up falling in love with it,
even before the answer comes.
Miu Miu L'Eau Bleue is a fresh floral
fragrance, based on lily of the valley. I kindly detest this note, and
spring-y, blooming scents make me wrink, but well, I completely fell
for this strange creature dressed in a pale blue silk gown singing
with Kim Carnes's voice (if you don't know her, click here and listen).
Lily of the valley, rose, green notes,
jasmine, hedione, white musk and a strange note called akigalawood
create an unexpected cold, bitter, extra-dry, luminous, powerful,
scent, standoffish like just few others. And brave, too: in an era of
floral, sugary, overly musky, glitter-and-sequins perfumes, this one
speaks another language. Miu Miu L'Eau Bleue features all the
strange, funny, incredibly chic eccentricity of Prada Couture. And
when a perfume reflects the values of its brand I feel the need to
emphasize it.
The amazing thing is that the intensity
of this fragrance grows over time, and after four-five hours of spraying
you find yourself wrapped up by a more powerful and interesting
olfactory cloud than at the beginning. Perhaps it's due to this
mysterious akigalawood, which I will definitely look for as soon as
possible.
Daniela Andrier, the scent's creator,
is a Master Perfumer I've been admiring for a long time: creative,
bold, capable of abstract works like this (or Marni, one of the few
feminines worthy of note in recent years), even close to
unwearability, but also of exhilarating and immediately pleasant
scents. Her works for Prada are a handbook of all the nuances with
which scents can speak to people. There is not enough talk, or with
enough admiration, about this extraordinary creator.
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