L'Heure Bleue (Delphine Jelk for Guerlain, 2026)

This new version of L'Heure Bleue really surprised me.

For lack of ideas, unfortunately.

The central accord is twenty-year-old, and closely resembles the first version of Insolence (a fruity-floral with crisp, powdery notes of violet and iris, and a lovely ambery base). Here it is counterpointed by an ozonic note recalling some niche perfumery stars of a few years ago (Megamare by Orto Parisi comes to mind).

The formula focuses on the contrast between two antithetical concepts (sweet/powdery feminine and salty oceanic).

Unfortunately, however, the two concepts do not dialogue in any way, but stand out close together, in full bloom, without any nuance, complexity, or evolution.

The perfume lasts ten full hours, with an intense radiance that may saturate a whole room: the ozonic note played at full volume has the effect of an anti-theft device resounding in the night, unable to drop a decibel for eight hours. I imagine this will be the engine fuelling its success: a segment of the public appreciates “beast mode” perfume.

The blue-sea tinge of the bottle is very nice.

The color of the liquid, a very delicate indigo shade, is consistent with the concept of the Blue Hour, and is the best feature of the product.

Maybe this new L'Heure Bleue “Bears the wrong name”, and “Doesn't smell like a Guerlain” as I've heard around. Maybe. 

In any case, a perfume should smell good first, and this one doesn't. 

I'm so sorry, bcause I do love Guerlain. I hope sooner or later it will regain its position within humanity's cultural heritage.